Aquarium & Pond Air Pumps and Water Pumps
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Generally what a pump is rated for flow (such as 100 gph) is only achieved at 0 Head Pressure meaning right out of the pump with no devices added, no lifting, and no water pressure. Impeller design such as a closed will maintain a higher flow rate as head pressure is added over th more common standard impeller designs. To measure you actual "real world" flow rate; simply disconnect or slip a bucket, pitcher, or other measuring device where your water flows out back into your pond, aquarium, fountain, etc. Then measure the time to fill this container. For instance if 1 gallon were filled in 10 seconds, this would be 6 gallons per minute or 360 gph.
For more about calculating Head Pressure in water pumps, please see this "Aquarium & Pond Answers article:
Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps
With most water pumps, adapting the inlet or outlet to fit your application is OK and often necessary. I do not recommend restricting inlet size more than 25% or outlet size more than 50%. For instance a Rio HF Pump with a 1 inch outlet can easily be fitted to a 3/4 inch pipe/tubing if this is what is already in use with your application (if you are building this application from start, matching pump & pipes is best whenever possible, but with established applications such as pond, this is not always possible without great expense and labor). Generally I will use PVC Reducing Bushings or Reducing Hose Barbs to make these fits.
Increasing pipe/tubing size is also helpful for increased flow and especially head pressure. This is even more important with light duty impeller designs as the open impeller of this design (which is employed by 90% of water pumps sold, not just those sold here), simply will not push water through a small pipe, even if a larger flow pump is purchased as the impeller design simply allows water to flow back when the pressure is too great.
It is also noteworthy that even for in-line pump applications (many of the pumps we sell can work both submersed or in-line), that for in-line applications, ANY in-line pump must be placed below the top water level WITHOUT a siphon in the middle, and this includes ponds: In other words, the water should flow level or better, down hill to the pump without any obstructions/impediments on the way to the pump. Any and all pumps MUST be able to draw the water in before the pump can expel the water under pressure, REGARDLESS of pump size, pump flow, or head pressure. All pumps must have water either primed by gravity or another method for initial start up and must be able to keep this siphon in the event of a power failure, if not possible, you need to re-evaluate your pump plumbing placement. It is for this reason, which includes my own practical experience, I usually do not recommend an inline pump for an aquarium or pond.
As well make sure all connections into the pump are air tight, otherwise if the pump "sucks air", this can damage your pump. After the pump the water can be restricted if needed and travel "uphill".
As well, despite some claims to the contrary, most magnetic drive aquarium, pond, fountain pumps are designed to be run UNDER WATER unless otherwise specifically noted by the manufacturer. While many will run pumps such as the Rio Pump Line inline out of the water (but at least below the water level), the design is not such that these pumps will stay adequately cool, often resulting in warping of the impeller well. In my 100s of applications I have seen in my years of aquarium/pond maintenance and design, when installed out of the water, these pumps would often fail much sooner than pumps run under water.
The exceptions are pumps specifically designed for this which are quite rare of late and much more heavy duty and pricey. An example is the SunSun JAP Series Amphibious Pumps. Even then, my experience has shown that running magnetic drive pumps "in-line" out of the water shortens their life span, so wherever possible, these should be run under water with as much pre-filtration as possible!
A newer innovation in water pumps are variable frequency pumps that use considerably less power (as measured in watts) for the same flow and head pressure of more traditional magnetic drive water pumps. Some now also have a controllable flow rate lets you only use the power required for the flow you desire.
Hydor Seltz D Universal Pumps One advantage (at least in theory), is that variable frequency water pumps are less likely to be damaged from stress on the input side of a water pump as flow restrictions from water cause including debris, can quickly destroy most traditional pumps (especially high power/flow pumps).
Generally what a pump is rated for flow (such as 100 gph) is only achieved at 0 Head Pressure meaning right out of the pump with no devices added, no lifting, and no water pressure. Impeller design such as a closed will maintain a higher flow rate as head pressure is added over th more common standard impeller designs. To measure you actual "real world" flow rate; simply disconnect or slip a bucket, pitcher, or other measuring device where your water flows out back into your pond, aquarium, fountain, etc. Then measure the time to fill this container. For instance if 1 gallon were filled in 10 seconds, this would be 6 gallons per minute or 360 gph.
For more about calculating Head Pressure in water pumps, please see this "Aquarium & Pond Answers article:
Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps
With most water pumps, adapting the inlet or outlet to fit your application is OK and often necessary. I do not recommend restricting inlet size more than 25% or outlet size more than 50%. For instance a Rio HF Pump with a 1 inch outlet can easily be fitted to a 3/4 inch pipe/tubing if this is what is already in use with your application (if you are building this application from start, matching pump & pipes is best whenever possible, but with established applications such as pond, this is not always possible without great expense and labor). Generally I will use PVC Reducing Bushings or Reducing Hose Barbs to make these fits.
Increasing pipe/tubing size is also helpful for increased flow and especially head pressure. This is even more important with light duty impeller designs as the open impeller of this design (which is employed by 90% of water pumps sold, not just those sold here), simply will not push water through a small pipe, even if a larger flow pump is purchased as the impeller design simply allows water to flow back when the pressure is too great.
It is also noteworthy that even for in-line pump applications (many of the pumps we sell can work both submersed or in-line), that for in-line applications, ANY in-line pump must be placed below the top water level WITHOUT a siphon in the middle, and this includes ponds: In other words, the water should flow level or better, down hill to the pump without any obstructions/impediments on the way to the pump. Any and all pumps MUST be able to draw the water in before the pump can expel the water under pressure, REGARDLESS of pump size, pump flow, or head pressure. All pumps must have water either primed by gravity or another method for initial start up and must be able to keep this siphon in the event of a power failure, if not possible, you need to re-evaluate your pump plumbing placement. It is for this reason, which includes my own practical experience, I usually do not recommend an inline pump for an aquarium or pond.
As well make sure all connections into the pump are air tight, otherwise if the pump "sucks air", this can damage your pump. After the pump the water can be restricted if needed and travel "uphill".
As well, despite some claims to the contrary, most magnetic drive aquarium, pond, fountain pumps are designed to be run UNDER WATER unless otherwise specifically noted by the manufacturer. While many will run pumps such as the Rio Pump Line inline out of the water (but at least below the water level), the design is not such that these pumps will stay adequately cool, often resulting in warping of the impeller well. In my 100s of applications I have seen in my years of aquarium/pond maintenance and design, when installed out of the water, these pumps would often fail much sooner than pumps run under water.
The exceptions are pumps specifically designed for this which are quite rare of late and much more heavy duty and pricey. An example is the SunSun JAP Series Amphibious Pumps. Even then, my experience has shown that running magnetic drive pumps "in-line" out of the water shortens their life span, so wherever possible, these should be run under water with as much pre-filtration as possible!
A newer innovation in water pumps are variable frequency pumps that use considerably less power (as measured in watts) for the same flow and head pressure of more traditional magnetic drive water pumps. Some now also have a controllable flow rate lets you only use the power required for the flow you desire.
Hydor Seltz D Universal Pumps One advantage (at least in theory), is that variable frequency water pumps are less likely to be damaged from stress on the input side of a water pump as flow restrictions from water cause including debris, can quickly destroy most traditional pumps (especially high power/flow pumps).
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