What is the Nitrogen Cycle:
The nitrogen cycle is the process by which organic protein based wastes are converted from toxic ammonia, to slightly less toxic nitrites, to relatively non-toxic nitrates (in some aquarium or pond systems nitrates are converted to free nitrogen or consumed by plants or algae).
For more, please see Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle FAQs or for the complete in depth article, see the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle.
For more, please see Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle FAQs or for the complete in depth article, see the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle.
Aquarium Lighting Explained:
How many lights do I need for my aquarium?
This depends on many things including:
• Tank size
• Setup
• Species
• Type of light you are looking at
You can learn more by reading our Set up suggestions article. This takes several things into account and has some very useful information!
What kind of lights are best for my setup?
This also depends on many of the same things above such as:
• Tank size
• Setup
• Species
• Budget
Once you finish determining the above aspects you are ready to look at different types of lighting. There are several different types such as SHO (Super High Output) LED, T-2, etc. Please see our Aquarium Lighting Types Article.
What is the difference between the LED single strips and the LED Duos?
The difference between the single and the duo is that the duo comes with one double power supply to support both units and the singles come with a single power supply. You can find more on our LED page.
This depends on many things including:
• Tank size
• Setup
• Species
• Type of light you are looking at
You can learn more by reading our Set up suggestions article. This takes several things into account and has some very useful information!
What kind of lights are best for my setup?
This also depends on many of the same things above such as:
• Tank size
• Setup
• Species
• Budget
Once you finish determining the above aspects you are ready to look at different types of lighting. There are several different types such as SHO (Super High Output) LED, T-2, etc. Please see our Aquarium Lighting Types Article.
What is the difference between the LED single strips and the LED Duos?
The difference between the single and the duo is that the duo comes with one double power supply to support both units and the singles come with a single power supply. You can find more on our LED page.
Aquarium Filters:
Why is my Canister Filter losing suction?
If your canister filter is losing suction, it is typically because there is an air leak somewhere in the intake side of your setup. You can check specific problems on our Canister Filter Trouble Shooting page.
How often should I change my filter cartridges?
Filter cartridges can be changed or rinsed as often as you like, however if you do not have a "seeded" replacement you are throwing away much of your Autotrophic nitrifying bacteria, which is an important part of aquarium chemistry.
I would suggest a Sponge Filter or Sponge Pre-Filter as they have the colonies of Autotrophic nitrifying bacteria that are needed, and you will not throw it out when you change your filter cartridges.
For more information on this please see the Filter Media Care page OR the Sponge Filtration page.
If your canister filter is losing suction, it is typically because there is an air leak somewhere in the intake side of your setup. You can check specific problems on our Canister Filter Trouble Shooting page.
How often should I change my filter cartridges?
Filter cartridges can be changed or rinsed as often as you like, however if you do not have a "seeded" replacement you are throwing away much of your Autotrophic nitrifying bacteria, which is an important part of aquarium chemistry.
I would suggest a Sponge Filter or Sponge Pre-Filter as they have the colonies of Autotrophic nitrifying bacteria that are needed, and you will not throw it out when you change your filter cartridges.
For more information on this please see the Filter Media Care page OR the Sponge Filtration page.
Salt Per Gallon Freshwater:
This is a question with no black & white answer.
Generally speaking with the exception of brackish fish and many livebearers and some Cichlids, the answer is no slat is needed except during treatments or new fish introduction to increase osmoregulation.
The amount generally speaking is 1 teaspoon per gallon for salt tolerant fish and 1 tablespoon for less salt tolerant fish.
For a more expanded discussion of this subject, please read this article in full: Aquarium Salt Use
Generally speaking with the exception of brackish fish and many livebearers and some Cichlids, the answer is no slat is needed except during treatments or new fish introduction to increase osmoregulation.
The amount generally speaking is 1 teaspoon per gallon for salt tolerant fish and 1 tablespoon for less salt tolerant fish.
For a more expanded discussion of this subject, please read this article in full: Aquarium Salt Use
Water or Air Pump Placement:
We offer several different types and sizes of water pumps. To determine what water pump would work best for you, and your setup (aquarium fountain, pond), please check out our Pump Specification Page.
Please be aware that for best performance and to achieve the full normal life of your water pump, it should be placed at or below the water level of the aquarium, fountain, or pond.
As well, most modern pumps are magnetic drive and are best operated fully submersed. The exceptions to this are generally stated by the manufacturer and usually these pumps are much more pricey.
Please reference the above Pumps Specification article for more about this.
For Air Pumps, as generalization it often depends upon the number of air powered outlets/devices are needed.
As well the depth of the aquarium in question can make a difference in the pump needed, as you would not want a low air volume economy air pump running an air powered device such as a Sponge Filter that in over 18 inches of water depth.
Placement is also important!
If at all possible the air pump should be placed above the aquarium. My experience has shown that this adds considerable life to the air pump, provides better air pressure, and prevents the possibility of water back up into the pump.
Even if there is no good location on top or above the aquarium, running a long air line tube into a closet or similar where the air pump can be placed above the water level is worth it for the above stated reasons!
Here are a few suggestions:
Please be aware that for best performance and to achieve the full normal life of your water pump, it should be placed at or below the water level of the aquarium, fountain, or pond.
As well, most modern pumps are magnetic drive and are best operated fully submersed. The exceptions to this are generally stated by the manufacturer and usually these pumps are much more pricey.
Please reference the above Pumps Specification article for more about this.
For Air Pumps, as generalization it often depends upon the number of air powered outlets/devices are needed.
As well the depth of the aquarium in question can make a difference in the pump needed, as you would not want a low air volume economy air pump running an air powered device such as a Sponge Filter that in over 18 inches of water depth.
Placement is also important!
If at all possible the air pump should be placed above the aquarium. My experience has shown that this adds considerable life to the air pump, provides better air pressure, and prevents the possibility of water back up into the pump.
Even if there is no good location on top or above the aquarium, running a long air line tube into a closet or similar where the air pump can be placed above the water level is worth it for the above stated reasons!
Here are a few suggestions:
- For one basic air outlet under 18" in depth the Million Air 80 might fit the bill.
- For two basic air outlets under 18" in depth the Million Air 400.
- For a little more power & performance as well as depth, the Million Air 200 for one outlet OR for two outlets the Million Air 600.If even more outlets are needed, you can purchase an airline control kit to split the existing outlets on say the Million Air 200, 600.
- If more outlets as well as yet more performance is needed, our suggestion would be the Fusion 700 (Discontinued) combined with the Lees airline control kit to split the Fusion 700s two outlets into 4 or more outlets.
What is an aquarium Sump?
A sump is generally another smaller aquarium or holding tank below the main display aquarium (or aquariums in the case of a system with multiples) where by water is allowed to overflow or siphon into said "Sump Tank". Then the water is pumped back up to the aquarium (or aquariums).
Generally, an overflow is a better idea as a siphon can easily be disturbed (even by fish) and then your sump system will fail due to lack of water flow.
A sump is usually located in the stand/cabinet under the aquarium, but the sump can also be located on the other side of a wall, or in the basement, for concealment of large sumps.
This sump is is generally used to place filter systems from sponge filters, FSB Filters, wet/dry filters, Protein Skimmers, to marine Refugiums (or multiples there of).
UV Sterilizers can also be run from a sump, although it is best placed on the main return line for best results, not looped within the sump. Reference: UV Sterilization; Sump Use.
Further Information:
• Saltwater Aquarium Set-Up Suggestions
• Aquarium Filtration, Filter Use
Generally, an overflow is a better idea as a siphon can easily be disturbed (even by fish) and then your sump system will fail due to lack of water flow.
A sump is usually located in the stand/cabinet under the aquarium, but the sump can also be located on the other side of a wall, or in the basement, for concealment of large sumps.
This sump is is generally used to place filter systems from sponge filters, FSB Filters, wet/dry filters, Protein Skimmers, to marine Refugiums (or multiples there of).
UV Sterilizers can also be run from a sump, although it is best placed on the main return line for best results, not looped within the sump. Reference: UV Sterilization; Sump Use.
Further Information:
• Saltwater Aquarium Set-Up Suggestions
• Aquarium Filtration, Filter Use
Why is UV bulb not working?
True level one sterilization capable UV Bulbs can stop working, or not work at all, for a number of reasons. A couple examples are moisture damage, poor ballast, etc.
To find and troubleshoot your specific problem please see our UV Troubleshooting Guide.
To find and troubleshoot your specific problem please see our UV Troubleshooting Guide.
What size & type UV sterilizer do I need?
The size of UV Sterilizer you use also depends on what brand you use as some are not as good as others. I would recommend the Vecton line as they are simple, well built units with replacement parts readily available.
To find out what size you need please see our UV Sterilization Article.
To find out what size you need please see our UV Sterilization Article.
Constantly Sick Fish:
Often it is a case of poor water parameter, which includes a lack of mineral Cations and a weak bio filter.
Sometimes it is a manner of over care and over medication.
Sometimes however it is simply a case of weak genetics or poor care for the fish prior to the current fish owner taking ownership. By this I mean a fish exposed to very high ammonia levels or similar that permanently damaged the fish Kidneys, immune system, etc. Genetics are an especially common problem with over bred Guppies, Bettas, and Goldfish
Unfortunately all the meds in the world will not help if genetics or damage are the problem and only optimum water conditions can help prolong such a fish' life
We strongly recommend reading and following as many or preferably ALL the steps in Carl's "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article. This is one of the most researched and tested articles that also represents much of his life's work.
The more steps one leaves out, the less effective, and this includes the important step of true level one UV Sterilization (not a cheap Amazon Clarifier). Since it is difficult to fit a true level one capable UV on an aquarium much under 10 gallons and as well a stable bio filter is difficult in tanks under this size too, we suggest that any fish owner invest in an aquarium over 10 gallons. Even for Bettas, one could provide dividers, cages, etc that still allow for over all flow, better bio filtration, stable Redox, and UV Sterilization.
References:
A Healthy Aquarium; Disease Prevention
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish
Sometimes it is a manner of over care and over medication.
Sometimes however it is simply a case of weak genetics or poor care for the fish prior to the current fish owner taking ownership. By this I mean a fish exposed to very high ammonia levels or similar that permanently damaged the fish Kidneys, immune system, etc. Genetics are an especially common problem with over bred Guppies, Bettas, and Goldfish
Unfortunately all the meds in the world will not help if genetics or damage are the problem and only optimum water conditions can help prolong such a fish' life
We strongly recommend reading and following as many or preferably ALL the steps in Carl's "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article. This is one of the most researched and tested articles that also represents much of his life's work.
The more steps one leaves out, the less effective, and this includes the important step of true level one UV Sterilization (not a cheap Amazon Clarifier). Since it is difficult to fit a true level one capable UV on an aquarium much under 10 gallons and as well a stable bio filter is difficult in tanks under this size too, we suggest that any fish owner invest in an aquarium over 10 gallons. Even for Bettas, one could provide dividers, cages, etc that still allow for over all flow, better bio filtration, stable Redox, and UV Sterilization.
References:
A Healthy Aquarium; Disease Prevention
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish
What causes a sick fish?
This is related to the last question, so please also read the previous FAQ too.
The causes of fish illness can often be helpful in determining the pathogen as well, since some bacterium will thrive in certain conditions while others will not.
Here is a list of factors (please note that this list is NOT an exhaustive list!):
Stress from other fish, often bullying. Columnaris often can get a foothold from such stressors.
Poor water parameters due to high bio load, poor bio filter, and low oxygen levels.
Often nitrates will be above 50 ppm, pH and KH fluctuate widely from week to week (not day to day though).
Aeromonas or less aggressive Psuedomonas infections often result
Poor parameters based poor Redox Balance, poor ionic balance, and similar.
Minerals and their Cations are necessary for many bodily osmotic functions, without which many fish will more easily succumb to disease.
Columnaris in particular "preys" on fish in such environments. This is also why water from a home water softener should NEVER be used since it drives out these essential minerals.
This is also why old timer anecdotal views on a higher GH such as 300 ppm being undesirable needs to be rejected based on current known science.
References:
• Fish Osmoregulation from Aquarium Answers
• Aquarium Chemistry; In Depth
A common problem that most often there is little we can do for our finned pets is genetics or permanent physiological damage prior to ownership (such as kidney damage from very high ammonia levels due to over crowding in shipping, holding, etc.)
Really all one can do is provide the most optimum conditions from feeding to Redox, but to NOT pour in medication after medication chasing after a cure that will simply never be forth coming!
Less than optimum diet:
While many fish foods are good or at least appear to be good, never go by reasoning that the "fish like it" or user reviews.
Stick to the ingredients and the order in which they are listed. If one food has Spirulina as the #2 ingredient while another it is #4, the first is likely to be the better product. Ditto if cereal fillers are higher on the list or are listed more than once.
Further Reference: Fish Nutrition
Too much care.
This is a common problem of well many fish keepers making constant adjustments, having their hands in the aquarium, etc., often with poor results.
Please read this for further information: Aquarium Disease Prevention: Too Much Care
Trying to follow too many different fish keeping advice regimens.
While often one method of aquarium keeping is just as viable as another based different approaches that still use science as there basis, combining these methods more often than not results in failure based on my years of experience and testing.
One should find one proven method of fish/aquarium and stick to it such as how one cycles their new aquarium.
A related problem is following community driven reviews in places such as Amazon. These reviews are almost all driven by initial experience, often with missing but required parts, with no scientific testing, by persons with simply no credentials to make the statements both positive and negative in these reviews.
In house calls & later emails over the years Carl has often found these "advice problems" to be at the root of constant fish illnesses.
The causes of fish illness can often be helpful in determining the pathogen as well, since some bacterium will thrive in certain conditions while others will not.
Here is a list of factors (please note that this list is NOT an exhaustive list!):
Stress from other fish, often bullying. Columnaris often can get a foothold from such stressors.
Poor water parameters due to high bio load, poor bio filter, and low oxygen levels.
Often nitrates will be above 50 ppm, pH and KH fluctuate widely from week to week (not day to day though).
Aeromonas or less aggressive Psuedomonas infections often result
Poor parameters based poor Redox Balance, poor ionic balance, and similar.
Minerals and their Cations are necessary for many bodily osmotic functions, without which many fish will more easily succumb to disease.
Columnaris in particular "preys" on fish in such environments. This is also why water from a home water softener should NEVER be used since it drives out these essential minerals.
This is also why old timer anecdotal views on a higher GH such as 300 ppm being undesirable needs to be rejected based on current known science.
References:
• Fish Osmoregulation from Aquarium Answers
• Aquarium Chemistry; In Depth
A common problem that most often there is little we can do for our finned pets is genetics or permanent physiological damage prior to ownership (such as kidney damage from very high ammonia levels due to over crowding in shipping, holding, etc.)
Really all one can do is provide the most optimum conditions from feeding to Redox, but to NOT pour in medication after medication chasing after a cure that will simply never be forth coming!
Less than optimum diet:
While many fish foods are good or at least appear to be good, never go by reasoning that the "fish like it" or user reviews.
Stick to the ingredients and the order in which they are listed. If one food has Spirulina as the #2 ingredient while another it is #4, the first is likely to be the better product. Ditto if cereal fillers are higher on the list or are listed more than once.
Further Reference: Fish Nutrition
Too much care.
This is a common problem of well many fish keepers making constant adjustments, having their hands in the aquarium, etc., often with poor results.
Please read this for further information: Aquarium Disease Prevention: Too Much Care
Trying to follow too many different fish keeping advice regimens.
While often one method of aquarium keeping is just as viable as another based different approaches that still use science as there basis, combining these methods more often than not results in failure based on my years of experience and testing.
One should find one proven method of fish/aquarium and stick to it such as how one cycles their new aquarium.
A related problem is following community driven reviews in places such as Amazon. These reviews are almost all driven by initial experience, often with missing but required parts, with no scientific testing, by persons with simply no credentials to make the statements both positive and negative in these reviews.
In house calls & later emails over the years Carl has often found these "advice problems" to be at the root of constant fish illnesses.
UV Flow/Capacity/Dwell Time Explained:
We often are asked why the web pages selling our true UV Sterilizers do not match the box as per flow rate and aquarium/pond capacities.
The answer is simple, we use our professionally proven calculations to rate ALL of our UVs, this way our customers know they are getting apples to apples comparisons. In most cases, the flow/capacity recommendations are much lower, but with a few AAP/TMC Premium "Category A' UVs, the recommendations are higher. Despite what a few demanding persons have asked us to do, we will not compromise our integrity in an attempt to match our proven formulas to box/manufacturer recommendations!
Please Reference this article section for more: UV Sterilization; Flow Rate Table.
As per UV Sterilizer run time, best results are almost always achieved by running your true UV Sterilizer 24/7. This also extends the life of the unit since each start lowers bulb & ballast life with HO UV lamps/bulbs.
The answer is simple, we use our professionally proven calculations to rate ALL of our UVs, this way our customers know they are getting apples to apples comparisons. In most cases, the flow/capacity recommendations are much lower, but with a few AAP/TMC Premium "Category A' UVs, the recommendations are higher. Despite what a few demanding persons have asked us to do, we will not compromise our integrity in an attempt to match our proven formulas to box/manufacturer recommendations!
Please Reference this article section for more: UV Sterilization; Flow Rate Table.
As per UV Sterilizer run time, best results are almost always achieved by running your true UV Sterilizer 24/7. This also extends the life of the unit since each start lowers bulb & ballast life with HO UV lamps/bulbs.
UV Water Flow Direction:
Most True UV Sterilizers are "Non-Directional", meaning the there is no specific inlet or outlet and water can flow either direction (the exception would be the Internal UV Pumps/Filters). Reference: UV Sterilization at American Aquarium; Water Flow.
Some UV Sterilizers such as the SunSun 9 Watt Premium Compact UV can also have inlet/outlet ports adjusted to point in a direction that better suits specific aquarium or pond set up applications. Product Resource: SunSun 9 Watt Premium Compact UV.
Some UV Sterilizers such as the SunSun 9 Watt Premium Compact UV can also have inlet/outlet ports adjusted to point in a direction that better suits specific aquarium or pond set up applications. Product Resource: SunSun 9 Watt Premium Compact UV.
Head Pressure/Flow Rate:
What is Head Pressure? Affect on Flow Rate
QUOTE:
The most simple definition of head pressure is that this is the force (or resistance) placed on the "head" (outlet) of the pump by gravity. The weight of the water column past the point of the pump outlet and devices in-line past this point constrict or impede flow. A UV Sterilizer, pond "spitter", fountain, waterfall feature, or Fluidized Filter all can affect head pressure.
In other words the ability to LIFT water while maintaining current (think torque in a truck that allows the "lifting" or pulling of a load up a hill). This is not simply moving water on a level plain as flow, directly out of the water pump with no pressure placed on the pumps flow.
Another way to think of this is to take a 5 gallon bucket full of water. To simply tip and pour water out of the bucket takes very little energy or "lift" (as an example of head pressure). However, if you were to climb a ladder and pour this same bucket, it would take more energy or lift to do so (again as an example of head pressure).
The majority of aquarium and pond water pumps list their maximum head pressure, so this can be used to determine the end water flow (after head pressure is applied). This may be essential for not only determining the correct pump to purchase, but the correct UV Sterilizer (if desired) to be purchased since flow rate is a MAJOR FACTOR in UVC Sterilization effectiveness.
Further Reading/Reference: Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps
QUOTE:
The most simple definition of head pressure is that this is the force (or resistance) placed on the "head" (outlet) of the pump by gravity. The weight of the water column past the point of the pump outlet and devices in-line past this point constrict or impede flow. A UV Sterilizer, pond "spitter", fountain, waterfall feature, or Fluidized Filter all can affect head pressure.
In other words the ability to LIFT water while maintaining current (think torque in a truck that allows the "lifting" or pulling of a load up a hill). This is not simply moving water on a level plain as flow, directly out of the water pump with no pressure placed on the pumps flow.
Another way to think of this is to take a 5 gallon bucket full of water. To simply tip and pour water out of the bucket takes very little energy or "lift" (as an example of head pressure). However, if you were to climb a ladder and pour this same bucket, it would take more energy or lift to do so (again as an example of head pressure).
The majority of aquarium and pond water pumps list their maximum head pressure, so this can be used to determine the end water flow (after head pressure is applied). This may be essential for not only determining the correct pump to purchase, but the correct UV Sterilizer (if desired) to be purchased since flow rate is a MAJOR FACTOR in UVC Sterilization effectiveness.
Further Reading/Reference: Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps
AAP Wonder Shell Use:
What Size AAP Wonder Shell to Use?
While AAP provides many tips and scenarios for Wonder Shell use and while the original maker of the Regular Wonder Shell (Weco) provides often incorrect information about use, we will give some very simplified information/directions here in our FAQ page. For directions of our in house developed "patent pending" Medicated Wonder Shells, please see the selling page.
Basically the most important purpose of this product is to provide essential mineral Cations that have been demonstrated to improve Redox balance, but this does not mean the same amount to all fish, as with many fish and planted aquariums, a little goes a long ways.
As well, as with a battery, Genuine Wonder Shells lose their Cation "charge" over time, so if using older product, likely a higher dose will be required (which is why fresh product should be purchased)!
For African Cichlids, Livebearers, Brackish (such as Puffers): The full suggested Wonder Shell as per the directions provided by AAP
For a mixed community aquarium: 1/4 to 1/2 dose per the directions provided by AAP. Example for a 60 gallon mixed aquarium 1/4 to 1/2 Large Wonder Shell or 1/2 to 1 Medium Wonder Shell.
For a planted aquarium, Discus, Bettas, etc.: 1/8 to 1/4 dose per the directions provided by AAP. All you really need is a small amount of constant mineral Cations, but not so much as to jump your GH much more than 3dGH (50 ppm GH). Example for a 60 gallon planted aquarium 1/8 to 1/4 Large Wonder Shell or 1/4 to 1/2 Medium Wonder Shell.
If another planted aquarium GH booster product is being used regularly, then NO AAP Wonder Shell is needed.
Replacement is when the previous AAP Wonder Shell is dissolved (or mostly dissolved).
It is also noteworthy that Wonder Shells loose their Cation "charge" over time, so we suggest keeping your supply to 6 months or less.
As well, be careful where you purchase as there is but one authorized distributor of Wonder Shells in North America, yet several discount retailers are selling these often useful aquarium maintenance products when used correctly that have not purchased from this distributor and are simply selling low cost clearance product that is likely well over a year old.
References:
While AAP provides many tips and scenarios for Wonder Shell use and while the original maker of the Regular Wonder Shell (Weco) provides often incorrect information about use, we will give some very simplified information/directions here in our FAQ page. For directions of our in house developed "patent pending" Medicated Wonder Shells, please see the selling page.
Basically the most important purpose of this product is to provide essential mineral Cations that have been demonstrated to improve Redox balance, but this does not mean the same amount to all fish, as with many fish and planted aquariums, a little goes a long ways.
As well, as with a battery, Genuine Wonder Shells lose their Cation "charge" over time, so if using older product, likely a higher dose will be required (which is why fresh product should be purchased)!
For African Cichlids, Livebearers, Brackish (such as Puffers): The full suggested Wonder Shell as per the directions provided by AAP
For a mixed community aquarium: 1/4 to 1/2 dose per the directions provided by AAP. Example for a 60 gallon mixed aquarium 1/4 to 1/2 Large Wonder Shell or 1/2 to 1 Medium Wonder Shell.
For a planted aquarium, Discus, Bettas, etc.: 1/8 to 1/4 dose per the directions provided by AAP. All you really need is a small amount of constant mineral Cations, but not so much as to jump your GH much more than 3dGH (50 ppm GH). Example for a 60 gallon planted aquarium 1/8 to 1/4 Large Wonder Shell or 1/4 to 1/2 Medium Wonder Shell.
If another planted aquarium GH booster product is being used regularly, then NO AAP Wonder Shell is needed.
Replacement is when the previous AAP Wonder Shell is dissolved (or mostly dissolved).
It is also noteworthy that Wonder Shells loose their Cation "charge" over time, so we suggest keeping your supply to 6 months or less.
As well, be careful where you purchase as there is but one authorized distributor of Wonder Shells in North America, yet several discount retailers are selling these often useful aquarium maintenance products when used correctly that have not purchased from this distributor and are simply selling low cost clearance product that is likely well over a year old.
References:
- AAP Wonder Shells
- Aquarium Redox
- Aquarium Chemistry
The difference between KH buffer & Wonder Shells:
AAP Wonder Shells; provide mineral Cations constantly as well as increase GH (how much depending upon use).
AAP Wonder Shells do very little for KH (despite some claims by their original manufacturer)
SeaChem Cichlid Salt; provides sodium chloride salts as welll as other mineral and carbonate buffers.
This is a product to use after each water change as per the amount of water changed.
SeaChem Marine or Malawi Buffer; these are aimed at buffering KH with added minerals for ionic balance. Marine Buffer adds more minerals than Malawi.
These are best used in between water changes to maintain KH
Further Reading: Aquarium Chemistry
References:
AAP Wonder Shells do very little for KH (despite some claims by their original manufacturer)
SeaChem Cichlid Salt; provides sodium chloride salts as welll as other mineral and carbonate buffers.
This is a product to use after each water change as per the amount of water changed.
SeaChem Marine or Malawi Buffer; these are aimed at buffering KH with added minerals for ionic balance. Marine Buffer adds more minerals than Malawi.
These are best used in between water changes to maintain KH
Further Reading: Aquarium Chemistry
References:
- SeaChem Malawi Buffer from AAP
- SeaChem Cichlid Salts from AAP
Worms/Planaria:
Despite misinformation on the Internet and forums; these are Detritus worms, NOT Planaria.
Normally these worms live harmlessly in the gravel, however when an aquarium has a large amount of organic decomposition, the population of these worms "explodes" causing these worms to swim into the water column seeking oxygen.
Oxygen deprivation is the only danger these worms cause and the cure for these worms is not adding an anti-parasitic treatment, rather addressing the cause of the high amounts of decomposing organics such as with a vacuuming and/or improved filtration.
References:
Normally these worms live harmlessly in the gravel, however when an aquarium has a large amount of organic decomposition, the population of these worms "explodes" causing these worms to swim into the water column seeking oxygen.
Oxygen deprivation is the only danger these worms cause and the cure for these worms is not adding an anti-parasitic treatment, rather addressing the cause of the high amounts of decomposing organics such as with a vacuuming and/or improved filtration.
References:
- Aquarium Trematodes, Detritus Worms
- Aquarium Planaria; Wiggly Detritus Worms, in Tank Water, on Glass
Hole in Head Disease (HITH):
QUOTE:
"HITH or Hexamitiasis (aka Hex) is an affliction that primarily affects Gouramis, Angelfish, Discus, Oscars and other South American cichlids.
A Cichlid has spots on their head which are called sensory pits. These are a series of fluid filled sacs with tiny hairs that sense vibrations and convert them to electrical impulses. Along the lateral lines, sensory pits are responsible for a fish's equilibrium in the water and look like little pin holes, generally arranged in a cluster.
In a HITH outbreak these sensory pits become eroded with ulcerated lesions which expand and coalesce together, forming larger crater-type lesions. They can extend deeper into the muscle and even down to the skull. These open lesions may become secondarily infected with bacteria or fungi and such secondary bacterial infections that may result in death.
It is sometimes believed by aquarists that the protozoan parasite Hexamita caused the skin erosions and therefore treatment is based on attempting to eradicate Hexamita by treatment with Metronidazole.
This is where a half truth does come into play; Often there is a misunderstanding as stated above as to the root causes, however there is also a misunderstanding of what Metronidazole is effective against."
Reference (the above quote referenced from):
"HITH or Hexamitiasis (aka Hex) is an affliction that primarily affects Gouramis, Angelfish, Discus, Oscars and other South American cichlids.
A Cichlid has spots on their head which are called sensory pits. These are a series of fluid filled sacs with tiny hairs that sense vibrations and convert them to electrical impulses. Along the lateral lines, sensory pits are responsible for a fish's equilibrium in the water and look like little pin holes, generally arranged in a cluster.
In a HITH outbreak these sensory pits become eroded with ulcerated lesions which expand and coalesce together, forming larger crater-type lesions. They can extend deeper into the muscle and even down to the skull. These open lesions may become secondarily infected with bacteria or fungi and such secondary bacterial infections that may result in death.
It is sometimes believed by aquarists that the protozoan parasite Hexamita caused the skin erosions and therefore treatment is based on attempting to eradicate Hexamita by treatment with Metronidazole.
This is where a half truth does come into play; Often there is a misunderstanding as stated above as to the root causes, however there is also a misunderstanding of what Metronidazole is effective against."
Reference (the above quote referenced from):
- Hole in the Head, HITH, Hexamitiasis (Hex) Disease in Fish
Why is my water cloudy or yellow/brown?
Always be sure to test your water parameters as yellowing can mean you have an imbalance or other underlying issues. Please see our Aquarium Chemistry Article for more information on this topic.
If your water tests fine your water can turn a yellow or brown (called Tannins) due to certain things you have in your tank such as driftwood, Bio-Lif, etc. This will not harm your aquarium inhabitants.
How do I get rid of the tannins in my tank?
After determining your tannins are not being caused by a chemical imbalance, carbon or Purigen are your best bet. You can purchase several types of carbon, the best being Bio Chem Zorb.
If you have a smaller filter, such as a Hang on back, they already do have a small amount of carbon in your filter cartridge. You can get more and add it to your filter.
For a smaller filter I would recommend the Nirox Active Filter Carbon. It comes in a small bag and will fit right into the filter. Please keep in mind that if you have plants in your tank, tannins are good for them.
If your water tests fine your water can turn a yellow or brown (called Tannins) due to certain things you have in your tank such as driftwood, Bio-Lif, etc. This will not harm your aquarium inhabitants.
How do I get rid of the tannins in my tank?
After determining your tannins are not being caused by a chemical imbalance, carbon or Purigen are your best bet. You can purchase several types of carbon, the best being Bio Chem Zorb.
If you have a smaller filter, such as a Hang on back, they already do have a small amount of carbon in your filter cartridge. You can get more and add it to your filter.
For a smaller filter I would recommend the Nirox Active Filter Carbon. It comes in a small bag and will fit right into the filter. Please keep in mind that if you have plants in your tank, tannins are good for them.