  AQUARIUM FILTRATION (Filters), how they work, advantages/disadvantages of each type of filtration, & DIY filters; Types of Aquarium Filtration: *UGF, *HOB, *Sponge, *Internal & Power Heads, *Canister, *Wet/Dry, *Refugiums Mud Filters * Fluidized Bed, *Germicidal, * Protein Skimmer Filters. *Berlin Filter Method *Cleaning filters |
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By Carl Strohmeyer Overview There are several different types of aquarium filters, each with advantages and disadvantages. Most work best when used in combination to compliment each other, this redundancy is also important for peace of mind in case one filter fails, another will keep your aquarium filtering. I give my opinion too with each of these types of filters, based on 29 + years maintaining a large aquarium maintenance company in Los Angeles, California. I used many different types and brands of filters during this time, and continue to try new ones out. Below I discuss the attributes (and weaknesses) of each type of filter and I give trouble shooting tips for each as well. I would also like to point out that I am a big believer in filter redundancy, meaning having more than one filter or at least more than one water circulation device which even an air pump driven air stone counts as. In fact a along this line a simple air stone creates good vertical circulation which is often a compliment to a filter that creates “cross circulation”. Non Stop air pumps are even a better yet compliment to filter redundancy since these pumps have a self contained battery pack that allows the pump to continue operation even after a power failure (the Azoo Non Stop AC/DC Air Pump is a good example of this). Back to an air pump/air stone combination, this can still perform some bio filtration simply by moving current and adding dissolved oxygen (at the surface via gas exchange, not by virtue of the column of bubbles); this current will move water by nitrifying aerobic bacteria clinging to the surface of rocks, décor and in the case of marine aquariums, live rock which by itself is a very efficient bio filter provided ample water current is provided. My reasons for filter redundancy are back up bio filtration (which is also useful for “seeding” new aquariums or quarantine/hospital aquariums), added mechanical filtration, added water movement, and preventing filter emergencies (especially while you are a sleep, out of town, at work, etc.), since your second filter takes care of filtration until you can fix or replace the failed filter. Also as note, these articles are based on both facts and my opinions from using these filters under many different circumstances, so if I am somewhat critical of a certain filter, often it is just because of over blown hype around this filter, not that it does not necessarily work. I just do not believe in magic filters, conditioners, etc. that will do everything. For this reason even products I really believe in such as the Wonder Shell or Aquarium Cleaning Machine could use some renaming if it was up to me as the Wonder Shell is not a “Wonder” but a useful tool (maybe “mineral block”) and the Aquarium Cleaning Machine is not a “monthly maintenance miracle” but a very useful tool for proper husbandry. For Marine Aquarium filter systems/combination suggestions, please see this article: “Marine (Saltwater) Aquarium Filter Set Up Suggestions” Filter Parameters : These parameters are important to consider. I will rate a few different brands in these categories where applicable (please only use this as a guide). *Capacity; by this I mean the amount of bio load and debris a certain filter can hold. I will rate this (based on comparisons to similar size filters, in other words a Hydro Sponge I will not be compared to Via Aqua 750 Canister Filter). *Bio Load capacity; similar to above, however this pertains to bio filtration (nitrifying, not de-nitrifying) abilities in particular. *Flow By; this is the efficiency of a given filter to trap particulates of a given size without the water going around the media. I have determined this by measuring a micron filter insert, sponge or other Media’s debris collection after a given time. *Head Pressure; this is the ability of the filter or pump to lift vertically. Many pumps and filters will claim 300 gph at 0 head pressure, however when devices such as a UV Sterilizer are added or the filter/pump has to lift vertically any distance (such as a canister filter on the floor), many pumps/filters will have much lower gph. This is a common problem with Fluval Canister filters for instance. UNDER GRAVEL (UGF);  An old standby that is good for biological filtration (the conversion of fish waste from ammonia and nitrites to less harmful nitrates), but is poor for mechanical filtration (the removal of debris- organic and inorganic). Although I have used many over the years with good results (although there is generally more work involved in achieving reasonable results with an UG Filter than with other filters), I do not generally recommend them anymore. There was one under gravel filter that stood out; The Nektonics UGF with its raised ridges without slots allowed for a much better water flow especially over time when cheaper flat plate designs were packing and slowing the flow rate. I have actually clocked a higher flow rate with Nektonics UGF vs. a flat plate UGF using a 1 gallon jug placed just under the out flow and timing the fill rate (it is noteworthy that Perfecto has a similar design under gravel filter to Nektonics). Most also do not perform chemical filtration although some have small carbon cartridges that go on the exhaust of the lift tube (Lee’s makes such a UGF). Under Gravel Filters are also not real good for planted aquariums; the roots have a hard time thriving with the filter plants just below the gravel (although you add potted aquarium plants to aquariums with UGFs). UGF are also poor at de-nitrification, as they do not allow for the fine sand and anaerobic bacteria needed for Nitrate removal. One reason behind my lack of recommending an under gravel filter is the buildup of organic mulm. This leads to high DOC (Dissolved organic compounds) from the amount of nitric acid products from decomposition. This in turn lowers GH, KH, and increases Nitrates and Redox, none of which is good. This can be reduced by regular siphoning under the plate with a siphon tube or using a reverse flow Power Head. Also the design of the Nektonics UG filter also reduces DOC. To siphon under the plate, I usually move gravel away from the lift tubes then disconnect the lift tubes. After this I run a siphon tube (as large as will fit under the plate) and such as much organic detritus (muck or whatever else you want to call it) as possible. Often owners of UG Filters will add more gravel thinking “more is better”, while it is true that tanks with Under Gravel filters generally need more gravel than tanks without (2-3” vs. 1.5 -3” of gravel), adding copious amounts of gravel simply leads to what is called channeling and this results in dead areas and often more problems with DOC If used, I recommend a HOB (power filter) as a compliment, they have better mechanical and chemical filtration, but tend to be lacking in biological filtration (some are better than others for this). Potential UGF Problems: Make sure to use a bottle brush to keep the lift tubes flowing smoothly, vacuum regularly especially around the lift tubes to prevent organic build up that can impede flow. Flow will be poor if too fine a gravel or sand is used, #3 gravel works best. If you use too coarse of gravel (especially do not use marbles), bio filtration will not be effective (and mechanical filtration will also be poor). If gravel is to shallow near the lift tubes, you will get a poor circulation pattern. Make sure gravel is deepest near the lift tubes. HANG ON BACK-POWER FILTERS (HOB);    HOB filters (hang on the back- power filters) are quite popular for good reason. They are generally inexpensive and simple to operate. These filters are good for mechanical and chemical filtration, but are generally poor for bio filtration. This does vary widely with the model though. The Aqua Clear is better than most for biological filtration and is very popular for this reason among many experienced aquarists. But its design tends to lead to flow-by, resulting in poor mechanical filtration especially for more fine debris (they also have poor impellers, and in my experience, have a higher than normal break down record and have a tendency to leak). Before I seem too hard on these filters, these filters do have a lot of capacity and flexibility especially in the larger models (which is where I would recommend their purchase, the small Aqua Clears are really no better than any other HOB in terms of capacity than comparable Whispers, Via Aqua VitaLife, etc.). I do NOT buy the argument by supporters of Aqua Clears that the cartridge style filter is more expensive to operate and vastly less efficient biologically. With a pre-filter, the cartridges can last a long time (often a few months) and many come with grids or sponges to improve bio capacity. The Aqua Clear Models I recommend are the 70 (old 300) and the 110 (old 500), these are useful filters in terms of capacity and versatility. The model 110 is a good choice for aquariums over 70 gallons especially if backed up by an internal filter. One more point in favor of Aqua Clears (or at least the Model #70 and # 110), these can also be converted into a pretty good Nano Reef Filter with some live rock fragments (about 1”) or volcanic rock and even a small mud filter with the mud or even live sand in a fine nylon bag place in the bottom of the filter. Hopefully some of the impeller problems I have experienced in the past will (or are being) improved as the larger models of Aqua Clears are very versatile filters that I recommend. For smaller models, I still recommend the Whisper, VitaLife or TetraTec, which I discuss below. The Penguin has good mechanical filtration (little flow-by), but are not as good for bio filtration, EVEN with the Bio-Wheel, which is vastly over-rated in my tests I preformed through my aquarium maintenance business. I removed the bio wheel on penguin filters on comparable aquariums with comparable bio loads and fish and found no discernable ammonia spike. There are NO penguins I recommend, especially the Emperor models as I have had so many impeller problems with these not to mention they have the problem of becoming Nitrate factories. For more information about my experiments with Bio Wheels, please read this article: Do Bio Wheels really work? The Whisper and Via Aqua VitaLife are the HOB filters I prefer the most for freshwater, with the VitaLife getting the edge with is surface skimmer, (although there are plenty of other excellent aquarium power filters available). Both of these filters provide reasonable bio filtration with the bio grid or sponge. I give the nod to the VitaLife 200 though due to the surface skimmer feature (not to be confused with a protein Skimmer). These filters have a low “flow by rate” and are thus much better for mechanical filtration. The ReSun along with the Top Fin are a good economy HOB filters (very reliable and surprisingly powerful, but few features) and is less prone to leaks. The ReSun also is available in a dual flow filter for a low price. The newer Via Aqua VitaLife HOB Filter has more features such as the bio grid for bio filtration and a unique surface skimmer (which a great feature!). This bio grid is a simpler and more reliable way to maintain nitrifying bacterial colonies than a bio wheel (The Millennium Filter also has this feature). The even newer yet HiQ Eco Power uses an excellent double cartridge system and grid that utilizes bio balls (one of the better bio HOB I have used to date, although the skimming feature of the Via Aqua is still my favorite). Before I seem like this is the style filter you should purchase, you need to look at what you need your filter for. If you have little debris in your aquarium but a high bio load, the Aqua Clear may be for you (their mechanical problems aside). As I will note in the next paragraph, a pre-filter will vastly improve this (although many Whispers come with a secondary sponge and the VitaLife has a bio-grid). With small economy HOB filters such as the ReSun or small Whispers a small Replacement Sponge stuck into the filter next to the cartridge will help with bio filtration (for only $2). In these style filters I prefer the ReSun for 10 gallon or less and often combined with a pre filter (for value reasons), the Via Aqua M-100 for 10-20 gallons or Via Aqua VitaLife M200 for 20-50 gallon aquariums, the Whisper 60 or Aquamaster 40 for 60-70 gallon aquariums, and the Aqua Clear 110 for over 70 gallon aquariums. Keep in mind that the previous opinions are subjective and your filtration needs may vary according to bio filtration vs. flow-by (mechanical filtration) needs and more. Even though HOB Filters are not first choice for marine aquariums, they can and do work here as well, usually in smaller applications (under 60 gallons). I generally prefer the Aqua Clear or Via Aqua VitaLife M200 for this application, the Via Aqua being my first choice due to its surface skimmer feature (& price too!). For either filter the addition of Live Rock fragments or volcanic rock via a filter bag will improve marine aquarium filtration (I remove the bio grid in the M 200 and substitute the filter bag instead) One more note about Whisper HOB filters; one nice thing about these filters is you can buy the “Bio Bag” filter inserts in bulk boxes cheaply at many local fish stores. I like this feature as it gives you options of economy and ease of carbon removal for treatment or established aquariums (which I rarely use carbon in except occasionally). You can “cut” the carbon out of Penguin, VitaLife, or other filters or simply let it become a bio media by not removing it and only rinsing the fiber part of the cartridge, thus saving money on new cartridges. I performed a few tests on “flow by” on Aqua Clears vs. Whisper and a couple other HOB filters (for mechanical filtration and chemical filtration). *Test [1]; Using a bare tanks (20 gallons) and original carbon. I added Methylene Blue and the Whisper removed the Methylene Blue quicker. *Test [2]; I added a washed gravel slurry again to a bare 20 gallon aquarium and again the Whisper removed the debris much quicker this time than the Aqua Clear. I also have used the Penguin and Via Aqua Vita Life; both were also quicker at removing the debris as well (the Via Aqua was the fastest). During this test I used an air stone on the bottom to keep the debris suspended. This experiment included these filers at the time it was conducted: Aqua Clear 150 (now the #30), Whisper 2 (#40), Penguin 170 (replaced by 200), and Via Aqua Vita Life 200. This brings me to the point that many HOB filters can be equipped with Pre Filters (the Filter Max is the best due to its patented sponge technology). Pre Filters vastly increase bio filtration, are inexpensive ($4.99 and up), prevent baby fish from being sucked into the filter, and provide a measure of bio stability when the cartridge is changed. It should be noted that with Aqua Clears, pre filters are not as necessary for bio filtration (they still improve it though), although they still prevent fry from being sucked into the Aqua Clear. A complaint with pre filters I have heard (not experienced) is that they end up performing all the mechanical filtration duties of your HOB filter; this is not true. With cartridge style HOB filters (Penguin, Whisper, Via Aqua, ECT.), the pre-filter will remove most of the medium to coarse debris BEFORE passing into the cartridge where the cartridge will then remove the more fine debris. This will have the added benefit will be longer periods between cartridges which will also save you money. For those preferring the economy and simplicity of Power Filters (HOB) however do not have the space on the back of the aquarium, I would suggest the very unique wet/dry/bio filters by ReSun. Potential HOB Filter problems: Make sure to clean the impeller regularly, also clean the area the impeller “nests” to prevent debris from stopping the impeller. If the impeller stops, check for carbon caught in this area and make sure impeller itself is not broken. The impeller should be to turn 359 degrees before locking, if the impeller spins freely or not at all, it is broken. Clean filter intakes with a foxtail brush to prevent build up that will slow the filter (a sponge pre-filter helps prevent this). For bio wheels, make sure the Teflon ends on the bio wheel axle are clean and have no build ups of calcium, you can replace these with Teflon tape in a pinch. Also make sure the bio wheel assembly is not to tight, simply remove the bio wheel and gently stretch the assembly apart so the wheel can spin more freely. HOB filters are good compliments to sponge filters or under gravel filters. SPONGE FILTERS;  Probably one of the most under rated filters available. These filters are excellent biological filters and reasonable mechanical filters. They are simple and inexpensive. The type of sponge material makes a large difference in the filters bio capacity. Reticulated filter foam is the preferred sponge material. One of the sponge filters benefits is their ease in cleaning, which in turn lowers the amount of organic material being broken down in the nitrogen cycle. It takes only minute to clean a sponge filter by rinsing it used aquarium water, while it may take half an hour to clean a canister filter. Internal filters and HOB small aquariums are good compliments to sponge filters. HOB filters especially benefit from Sponge Pre Filters (for more about them, please read my Sponge Filtration article). Canister filters are good compliments to sponge filters in large aquariums (or vice versa). In fact the Hydro Sponge #5 PRO will out perform many large HOB filters such as the Aqua Clear 110 and can be part of a large aquariums filter system despite the more common anecdotal beliefs that Sponge Filters are only for small aquariums. As for the brand of sponge filter I would recommend, the Hydro Sponge (by ATI) rises far above the rest as they hold most of the patents for sponge technology.  I have a lot more information about sponge filters in my article: "SPONGE FILTRATION; How sponge filters work and the benefits of using sponge filters in aquariums and ponds". This is a very in depth article and worth reading!INTERNAL FILTERS;  Not as common a filter but a much less alternative to expensive and bulky canister filters. Internal filters are basically a power head with a filter of varying capacity attached. They are useful for improved water circulation, generally are good mechanical and biological filters (although generally they do not have a large capacity). They are a great secondary or even third filter in large aquariums, and a good secondary are even primary filter in small aquariums (under 60 gallons).Internal filters are a good compliment to almost any filter (especially fluidized), due to the cross circulation they provide I prefer the Via Aqua internal filters for the flow rates, internal sponges and durability.  Power HeadsI will briefly mention Power Heads here as well as many internal filters are simply glorified Power Heads (I do not mean that in a bad way either). Power Heads are an excellent addition as these can add valuable cross currents that are especially useful in Marine Aquariums. Many such as Via Aqua 1300 have small sponges too and this is a size that fits many saltwater tanks well. The ReSun 2 & 2A are also good choices with Mag-drives and ceramic impellers. Another popular brand although not quite as reliable in my opinion is the Rio (there are many other power heads now available that are excellent too). The Power Sweep by ZooMed has not had a good track record from my experience; this pump breaks down in short order (the gears are of poor quality) and is under powered (poor head pressure). I am also not real keen on the reliability of Aqua Clear and Marineland Power Heads (I know many have used these later two brands with success, however IMO these are dinosaurs in technology and I have literally used 100s and have seen what they can and cannot do; the Marineland in particular has poor head pressure as well). Power heads such as the Via Aqua 3300 2600, or 1300 are useful for in line applications (as they do not need to be submersed) for sumps or similar applications. For a more thorough review of some popular power heads, please see this Aquariums Answers Post: “Review of Popular Aquarium (& Pond) Power Heads” Potential Internal filter Problems: Make sure to clean the impeller regularly, also clean the area the impeller “nests” to prevent debris from stopping the impeller. The impeller should be to turn 359 degrees before locking, if the impeller spins freely or not at all, it is broken. Make sure the media is rinsed in used tank water or de-chlorinated tap water regularly (if sponge media, change occasionally if the media is a cartridge or similar). Internal filters do not have the capacity of their larger cousins the Canister Filters, so check the media often CANISTER FILTERS;     Popular filters for larger aquariums in particular, Canister filters are known for their large capacity (most canister filters with the exception of Magnums are the ‘Kings’ of capacity), which sometimes can be their problem. Many aquarists will not clean canister filters often enough as they are “still running well”, but in reality are have a large build up of organic sludge turning them into ‘nitrate factories”. I do recommend them if they are serviced regularly, as their ability to hold large amounts of different filter media and their excellent mechanical filtration set canister filters above most other filters. Canister filters are still one of the best choices for a filter for fresh water aquariums over 100 gallons, especially when well maintained with regular rinses in de-chlorinated water (including foam and ceramic media). If used in marine aquariums I recommend the use of cured live rock crumbles or volcanic rock to keep these filters from becoming nitrate factories. For more information about this, please refer to this article: Marine Aquarium Information For MORE about filter media, please see this article: AQUARIUM FILTER MEDIA Most Canister filters have a water flow that flow from the bottom (not the Magnum); in these filters I would start with coarse filter media at the bottom of the canister. I would use products such as Nirox Bio Care ceramic media for coarse filtration and bio filtration (rinse this with used tank water- never tap water!), then I would use a medium fiber or Ehfi-Fix, then I would use filter fiber or poly filter pads and place any chemical filter media between the fiber or even in a nylon bag. For soft water (Amazon River Aquaria), I recommend Nirox Bio Lif which softens water like peat, but also helps trap pathogenic bacteria such as aeromonas. For quality and value I prefer the Via Aqua (one of the most reliable I have ever used!) or Rena (API) Filstar (although a bit more money), the Eheim is excellent but way over priced for the questionably better quality (They sell more on hype in my opinion, this is not to say that they are not good filters, as they are). In fact their Wet/ Dry Model (2229 W/D) is not a true Wet/ Dry rather it purges water in and out of the canister, this produces a poor flow rate for larger aquariums in particular and tends to prone to problems. The Magnum has unique convertible features (the ability to switch between standard canister filtration and micron), but their capacity is poor compared to the rest. Before one dismisses Magnums for their capacity, they have about the best head pressure as compared to comparable Canister filters which is especially useful for running UV Sterilizer, Fluidized filter, etc. Although popular, I am far less than impressed with the Fluval Canister Filter. They have weak motors, poorly designed impellers, and poor head pressure. I have had dozens of Fluvals on my maintenance route over the years, and their longevity is less than most others, even in the newer ’04 models (the ’05 models are too new to comment on as to longevity, however their design does not seem much improved to me). The Fluvals low head pressure, poor impeller, proprietary hoses, and more lead me to question why these vastly over rated filters are so popular, and I base this statement on years of use of these and other canister filters in REAL world applications. Another often forgotten aspect of canister filters is that you can drill and use bulk heads to attach a canister filter. I have installed many canister filters from Magnum to Via Aqua 750 to Ehiem, often powering UV Sterilizers and/or Fluidized filters this way in MANY high end installations I have performed in my business. I also set up a whole fish department this way. The over the top installation is more typical and works fine, however I have achieved better performance, and a MUCH cleaner look when drilled. When used this way your Canister filter is often easier to service (when valves are employed) and can more easily power additional equipment such as a UV Sterilizer, Fluidized filter, or Heater module. For a diagram of a drilled aquarium application, please see this article: Drilled Canister Filter Application Potential Canister Filter problems: Make sure to clean the impeller regularly, also clean the area the impeller “nests” to prevent debris from stopping the impeller. If the impeller stops, check for carbon caught in this area and make sure impeller itself is not broken. The impeller should be to turn 359 degrees before locking, if the impeller spins freely or not at all, it is broken. Also use a small foxtail brush to clean the intake and exhaust tubes, otherwise these may get clogged. Other potential canister filter problems (trouble shooting): *Make sure you have no air bubbles inside before re-staring it, otherwise purge the filter of all water and re-start your siphon. * For difficulties starting or re-starting a Canister filter (due to air bubble or other siphon problems), I recommend disconnecting the return tube from the aquarium and placing the end into a bucket BELOW the tank level. Try starting the siphon while in the bucket, once water flows naturally into the bucket (via gravity), replace the return tube on the aquarium and restart your filter. *Make sure your O Ring is properly seated by plugging the exhaust with your thumb and blow into the intake, if air escapes you need to re seat and possibly replace or lubricate your O Ring (Petroleum Jelly of Silicone gel works here). *Check inside the impeller housing with your little finger and feel for deformities, this is generally not repairable if found (Fluvals are notorious for impeller housing warping). Also make sure that the impeller does not free spin and locks before turning more than 360 degrees. *You can check for magnetic current by placing a screw driver in side the impeller housing with the impeller out and the motor ‘on’, you should feel a magnetic pull from all sides. *For leaky valves; remove the valve and place you finger over one end and blow or better suck as this detects small leaks better due to the fact that your will loose suction shortly after you start thru the valve with the switch open and then listening for leaks, as you may just not have it tightened all the way. Replace any bad O rings or lubricate them with Petroleum Jelly. Canister filters are good compliments to internal and sponge filters. Here is a canister filter media arrangement diagram (click to enlarge):  WET/DRY FILTERS;  Popular with marine aquariums in particular, these filters are great biological filters, but poor mechanical filters. They also can become “nitrate factories” like canister filters if not maintained properly. These filters became popular in the 1980s and everyone and their bother made these (often home built), although they are still excellent filters, their popularity is based more on principle and hype than on results. The principle is that the air holds more oxygen (which is true), thus by passing water thru bio balls partially exposed to the air you can achieve better bio filtration. What is missed is the fact that an aquarium with proper circulation should have more than adequate dissolved oxygen, not just for the bacteria, but for the fish. Proof of this is the fact I have achieved better bio filtration with comparable fish loads with live rock (marine only) UNDER water as I have with wet-dry filters bio balls. I also have achieved comparable results and better with large sponge filter (sometimes placed in the sump). I also like to place live rock in the sump too as this prevents in tank nitrifying bacterial die off during power failures.They are two basic types; The under tank wet/dry which uses a siphon or drain to take aquarium water out to the “sump” where the bio balls are other biological media are, and uses a pump or powerhead to return the water. With this type of wet/dry you want to make sure that you do not over fill the aquarium past where the sump will over flow with the pump off in case of a power or pump failure. This type also usually has a pre filter box to add mechanical filtration to the wet/dry. You can run a variety of bio media in this type of wet/dry. Bio balls and ceramic bio media are popular; live rock, plant Refugium, sponge filters attached to the pump intake, or all of the above are also popular. The other type is the built into the back wet/dry. These wet/drys are usually much more reasonably priced (along with the aquarium they are attached to: a good example is the “Dream Bow Front Aquarium” ). They usually do not have the versatility or capacity as the under tank wet/drys do though, but have the advantage of no “overflow possibilities”. Internal filters are usually good compliments to wet/dry filters, and are simple way to power UV Sterilizers at a proper flow rate in tanks equipped with either style wet-dry system.  A unique style of wet/dry is the internal wet/dry/bio filters by ReSun. This filter is very practical for tank applications where the aquarist desires a quality biological filter however has no room on the back for a conventional Power filter (HOB) and no desire for a canister filter. This filter also contains a slot to place your submersible heater safely out of the way/out of view.For marine applications I have removed the bio balls from both types of wet/dry filters and replaced the bio balls with broken cured live rock (about 1 to 1-1/2” in diameter) or volcanic rock and I have had great results with this method (including nitrates) over the bio balls. This method allows for some de-nitrification (depending on how larges your live rock pieces are, too small will not allow the formation of anaerobic bacteria), this also helps with water buffering by passing the water over the calcium based rock, and finally this improve nitrification over bio balls. You can easily build your own Wet/Dry or Mud-Wet /Dry combination. A simple over flow from your tank works well for the pick up (I prefer a bulkhead in the back or bottom of the tank). I often use a Hydro Pond IV Filter attached to the pump for mechanical and additional bio filtration. A micron sleeve can also be employed. If you are building a combination filter I will generally add the live rock crumbles in the first chamber and in this case I deploy the Hydro Sponge on the water diffuser over the crumbles. My pump of choice would be a 370 gph to 740 gph Power Head Pump such as the Via Aqua 1300, 2600, or King 2A. For a real simple sump you can simply use a Rubbermaid container filled with live rock crumbles and a pump with a pre filter (although this is not the best, it does work).  (For a larger view of this filter, please click below) Basic DIY Wet Dry Filter Pic Potential Wet-Dry filter problems: Make sure to clean the bio balls or other bio filter media occasionally by rinsing in USED aquarium water to keep them from slime build up and to keep the water from “channeling”. REFUGIUMS/MUD FILTERS;  (For a larger view of this filter, please click on the picture) These filters are primarily biological filters. Their advantage is they work both aerobically and anaerobically (removing nitrates, de-nitrification). These filters are very popular in Germany. They work best in my opinion if they have plants or algae such as Caulerpa Algae (or any other green marine algae/plant that grows quickly) to aid in de-nitrification (You would need to add lighting over this filter if plants are included). I also recommend a micron filter sleeve for pre filtration and/or a sponge media for further filtration before reaching the pump (which should be rinsed regularly so as to not themselves become “nitrate factories”. The picture is of a Refugium with a deep sand bed for anaerobic filtration. This becomes more of a “Mud Filter” when a pure silt or nutrient rich top soil is used to form an anaerobic mud. In this basic picture/diagram the Refugium is mounted slightly higher than the tank so the pump in the display tank pumps water to the Refugium and the water is redirected by the overflow/outlet to the main display tank. The Refugium/Mud Filter can also be place under the display tank and then the tank has an overflow or siphon to the Refugium and then a pump is placed therein to return the water back to the display tank. They are not good as the only filter and do not replace mechanical or even germicidal filtration (in marine). They do make an excellent alternative or combination to sometimes difficult to use protein skimmers, and can be awesome filters when used in combination with other filters and live rock, especially when the pure Berlin Method of filtration is employed. For algae (plants) for your Refugium, Mud Filter, or just your display tank, here is site I found:  Marine Aquarium Plants, Algae, Caulerpa FLUIDIZED BED FILTERS;  These filters are primarily biological filters only. They work well attached to an internal or canister filer (I prefer an internal). Fluidized bed filters use fine sand kept suspended in a water flow for aerobic biological filtration. The plus is they are basically self cleaning as the sand is constantly rubbing against other grains keeping down the organic buildup. The negative is do not supply a lot of oxygen for the aerobic bacteria. I have set up fluidized filters in marine aquariums in place of wet/drys with excellent results (I set up a whole marine aquarium store department this way). Aquarium fluidized bed filters are the way to go if you have a planted aquarium, because they won't wear off your CO2. They also make an excellent addition to any large aquarium with a heavy bio-load. Aquarium fluidized bed filters provide the most efficient biological filtration you can get in a large tank, and they are very easy to maintain. However I strongly recommend other filters (especially internal) to make up for the weakness of fluidized filters. This said, as I noted I have set up many for clients drilled thru the bottoms of aquariums, powered by either an Internal Filter/Power Head or a Canister Filter/Micron Filter. The beauty of this method is that they may move water slower than say a wet-dry, but they are much more efficient, less of a Nitrate factory, and move water at the perfect speed to optimize UV Sterilization if also utilized. In fact, the goldfish aquariums installed this way were among the healthiest and most trouble free I have maintained. The bottom line, if properly installed, their strengths will shine (they are not the nitrate factories that wet/drys are especially if the sponge pre filter is rinsed regularly). Here is a Diagram of how I installed these with a UV under the aquarium:  (For a larger view of this diagram, please click below) Under Tank Fluidized Filter Installation Pic Potential Fluidized Bed Filter problems: To fast a pump can cause sand to be ejected. Also if the water pick up for the filter is near a source of aeration or air injection, too much air can be added to the filter and again eject sand. Fluidized Bed filters will also tend to clog if water is not pre filtered first. For further information about the often unknown Fluidized Filter, please read this outside article: “About Fluidized Filters” GERMACIDAL FILTRATION;  Germicidal filtration is the use of UVC radiation or ozone to kill disease pathogens and improve the Redox Potential in aquariums. I believe they are essential to a healthy marine fish aquarium. But are equally important to expensive and sometimes delicate freshwater fish such as Discus. Many articles I have read state that a UV is not that beneficial to an established aquarium as a healthy aquarium depends on beneficial bacteria typically growing on media in your filter which neutralize ammonia. Unfortunately the problem with this statement is beneficial bacteria belongs in the filter, not in the open water. Also this is great for advanced aquarists who are not adding fish and have a healthy Redox Potential, but not in the real world of average and above average aquarists that I have dealt with in the 100s of aquariums I have serviced. I have a very in depth article about “Why you should use a UV Sterilizer and how it works” . I strongly recommend reading this article. PROTEIN SKIMMER;  Protein skimmers remove nitrogenous wastes (protein based organic waste) via foam refraction. The protein skimmer collects this waste in a cup, where it is then emptied. There are pump driven and air driven models. Within the pump driven there are different types: Venturi, Aspirating, Downdraft, and spray injection; the first two being most common.For a more in depth discussion of Protein Skimmers, please see this new Aquarium Answers article: "Aquarium Protein Skimmers"  Protein skimmers generally only work in marine aquariums where they are very popular in reef aquaria, as they are often needed to keep nitrates below .20 ppm for the delicate marine invertebrates. Here are some important aspects to consider so as to a purchase a skimmer that performs correctly: • Contact time of bubbles and water inside the chamber (the longer the reaction chamber, the better in most cases) • The size and consistency of the bubbles produced (very fine bubbles are best) • The relative volume of bubbles produced • The ratio of air to water • And the turbulence or friction inside the reaction chamber which may cause poor efficiency in some poorly designed units The advantages are that they remove nitrogenous waste before they can go thru the nitrogen cycle and become nitrates. The disadvantages are they are messy, take frequent adjustments (at least on many commercial models), and in my experience, over rated especially for marine fish aquariums. I also have kept many reef aquariums successfully with and without protein skimmers although I do recommend protein skimmers for reef aquariums. What I personally find interesting is that many of the aquarists that swear by protein skimmers totally trash UV Sterilizers, yet I have found from experience (I had to service what I sell, and if I sold trash, I had to service trash!) that often UV sterilizers had a more positive attributes than protein skimmers. That said, a good Protein skimmer is a useful tool in marine aquariums especially when used in conjunction with the Berlin Filter Method for reef aquaria and should be considered, more so if you are planning on keeping delicate corals! The Tropic Marine V2 Skim is one of the better ones with the latest in technology. This skimmer has a venturi injection system which optimizes the perfect mixture of fine air bubbles and water and ensures intensive, efficient skimming and the removal of proteins and other harmful toxins (waste) from the aquarium. For advanced Marine Aquarists (or even beginners looking to step up) this is the Protein skimmer I would strongly recommend.  Here are couple of basic skimmers for beginners: Via Aqua Multi Skimmer for beginners or small to medium aquariums due to its relative simplicity, mechanical filter cartridge, bio filtration ability, and most of all the Multi Filters built in UV Sterilizer combination.  For a really simple protein skimmer for a Nano tank I recommend the Rio Nano Skimmer.I do not recommend the Sea-Clone. Potential Protein Skimmer Problems: Protein Skimmers often need regular adjustment to achieve a proper foam collection level and sometimes the cup will also overflow when not checked often (this doesn’t usually make a mess, just makes for an ineffective protein skimmer). In my opinion many Protein Skimmers are best for more serious hobbyist’s do to the sometimes regular attention they need, but does not mean you have to be a professional to own one, just not someone who more just wants to look at his or her pretty aquarium with little “hands on”. Also the diffuser in the pump (in pump driven models) can easily get debris such carbon caught in the pump and make noise and not function properly this is more common in units with filter cartridges. To correct this; remove the carbon insert container, clean everything out, scrub it with a brush to remove all traces of the carbon particles, and then put it back together. The key to keeping low nitrates without a protein skimmer is (& and this is NOT to say that a Protein Skimmer is not worth while to have in a Marine tank, this is only intended to give other ideas as although a protein skimmer is a useful tool worth having, in most cases its is also not essential either); *Proper feeding of foods with highly digestible proteins so as to lower the nitrogenous waste produced. *Good anaerobic filtration via live rock, live sand, or mud filtration. *Plant refugiums and or good plant and green algae growth in the aquarium. *Proper and frequent cleaning procedures. Using a gravel vacuum (or better, the Aquarium Cleaning Machine , which with recirculation of water thru a micron cartridge after the initial water change, insures better waste removal with less water changed.) to remove waste before it can go thru the nitrogen cycle, but not digging so deep so as to disturb anaerobic filtration in the sand (I prefer a layer of fine sand under #3 gravel to achieve this). BERLIN FILTER METHOD: This is not a filter per say, rather a method of filtration for Marine Aquaria only that can employ many different filter types to accomplish it. Simply put it is the use of live rock and live sand (or mud) to perform aerobic and anaerobic filtration as well as provide a breeding ground for beneficial copepods and other marine life forms. This starts by adding ‘Cured’ Live Rock to your aquarium and even to some filters (It is best to purchase this live rock from dealers that have had this in an established aquarium for 2-4 weeks). Besides being placed in the aquarium, this live rock can be placed in filters such as a Mud Filter, in place of bio-balls in a wet/dry of either type (this is accomplished by breaking it into 1-2” pieces), in HOB Filters instead of filter media such as an Aqua Clear 500 (again using broken pieces), or in a sump. I really have had good success with broken live rock in built in wet/ dry filters in place of bio-balls (the “Dream Aquarium” is a good example where this can be applied. Protein Skimmers can compliment this well, but so can under rated sponge filters or internal filters (as long as they are rinsed regularly so as to not become nitrate factories), UV Sterilizers also compliment this method well (despite some popular opinion, not based on actually using these units, but rather on here say). One reason stated to not use a UV in this method is the destruction of nitrifying bacteria, well studies have shown nitrifying bacteria stick to surface with a glue-like substance and are generally not water borne. Another misconception is that beneficial copepods will be destroyed, again if you employ a sponge pre-filter on the pump or internal filter, I have found this to be patently false. I generally do not recommend Canister filters with this method (unless you can use live rock crumbles and/or volcanic rock inside the canister filter to improve anaerobic filtration), I have found them to just end up as nitrate factories, by ‘stealing’ a lot of the aerobic filtration with out the complimentary anaerobic filtration, and considering human nature, these are not as easy to quickly change and left full muck for two long (of coarse if you are willing to rinse it twice per week, then give it a try!) OTHER FILTERS (CLEANING FILTERS):  Other filters of note include the Diatom Filter (Vortex used to be a popular model), Aquarium water changers, and Filters such as the Aquarium Cleaning Machine . The Diatom filters use diatomaceous earth to filter water down to very fine micron size, and even filter out ich tomites. Often these filters are used in place of a water change, which they should not be. Also in my experience diatomaceous earth tends to strip some electrolytes from the water. Personally I prefer the newer Aquarium Cleaning Machine as this unit can first be used as a power vacuum to vacuum and drain water even up to a sink, then set to re-circulate through a micron & carbon cartridge where you can get the rest of the mulm out with out changing too much water. The micron cartridges in these can filter very fine particle including some parasites too. For more aquarium information and articles (pond too), please visit this site:   
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