 
Sponge filtration; How sponge filters work and the benefits of using sponge filters in aquariums and ponds |
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Sponge filtration; How sponge filters work and the benefits of using sponge filters in aquariums and ponds |
 Sponge Filtration OverviewSponge filtration is an often overlooked type of filtration for freshwater tanks and bowls, and even marine aquariums. Many persons look past their simplicity as ineffective, but therein lies their quality. I have used them for my aquarium maintenance business for 29 plus years with excellent results in freshwater, saltwater and ponds especially with Patented Hydro Sponge Filters . Sponge Filters are probably the best choice for Betta Bowls or tanks due to their bio efficiency, lack of turbidity, and low risk of fin damage. Sponge Filters are also the filter of choice among breeders (including use in their display aquariums as well), especially high value discus breeders. Here are some basics about aquarium sponge filtration:  Sponge filters work by aquarium water being drawn thru the porous sponge where debris is trapped mechanically, and aerobic bacteria remove nitrogenous wastes such as ammonia and nitrites. Water is moved thru the sponge media via a lift caused by air bubbles form an air pump attached to the filter via air line tubing or by a power head attached to the top of the lift tube. With sponge pre- filters the water is drawn thru the sponge media by the suction of the filter such as a HOB or canister’s motor unit.Seeding the sponge media biologically: To “seed” the sponge media you can use the sponge from an established aquarium or leave a sponge in the water column of an established aquarium. You also can simply place the filter in your aquarium and allow the sponge filter media to establish itself biologically. There are many other methods that work well, some are discussed here: "The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle" Care for your sponge filtration system: Rinse your sponge filter media as often as needed (these filters are easy to remove and rinse, which is one of their benefits), with dirty fish such as goldfish, usually once per week. Rinse your sponges in used aquarium water or de-chlorinated tap water, squeezing gently until the sponge filter media is clean. MORE SPONGE FILTRATION BASICS; How a Sponge Filter works:  When your Sponge Filter is attached to an air pump, the rising column of air in the tube pulls water with it. A larger lift tube allows for a higher flow rate (this is where Hydro Sponge filters excel).You can measure the water flow (which can be useful to know) by slightly tilting the filter with the top of the outflow just above the aquarium water line and timing the fill rate into a pitcher or gallon jug. If it fills the jug in 30 seconds, you multiply 2 times per minute times 60 or 120 gallons per hour. You can also add an air stone to the end of your tubing in the outflow tube to produce more bubbles and more lift. Click on picture above/left to enlarge When attached to a power head, the pump pulls the water thru the sponge. With this method I recommend using an air diffuser that generally comes with most power heads to improve dissolved oxygen levels (unless used in a planted freshwater aquarium). The Hydro Sponge #5 can handle flows up to 400 gph (depending in bio load), if a higher flow is required, the Hydro Pond Filter #2 or #4 can also be used in an aquarium (I have often used the Hydro Pond #4 as a pre-filter for high gph pumps in wet dry sumps). The Hydro Pond #4 is pump driven and can handle flows up to 1500 gph. Hydro Pond #2 is air driven and can handle flows up to 1000 gph. And of course the Hydro Pond Filters can be used in ponds where they are excellent complimentary filters or even stand alone filters (usually in low bio load ponds) The water is pulled through the sponge filter media where debris is mechanically trapped and aerobic bacteria remove nitrogenous waste such as ammonia and nitrites. For ponds, a more porous sponge media is better to allow a better flow rate and less accumulation of debris from mechanical filtration. For aquariums with internal, pre-filter, or standard sponge filters a medium porous sponge media with many tiny pores to trap bacteria is best (again this is where the Hydro Sponge Filter excels with its patented design).  When deciding on how high the lift tube should (whether air driven or pump driven), consider the flow pattern you would like to achieve in your aquarium. I recommend as a large a pattern as possible, therefore I cut the lift tubes (they can be easily cut with a hacksaw) as close to the water surface as will allow for evaporation and other minor changes in tank level and remain submerged. Even when air powered, the air lifts the water through the filter to the top of the lift tube where the water then exits, even thought the air bubbles continue to the surface. The picture to the left (click to enlarge) shows these differences. Diagram for sponge filter with an air pump installation (click to enlarge):  Here is a basic sponge filter installation video: PROPER SPONGE MEDIA CARE; The main problem with sponge filter media of any type is clogging due to mechanical filtration. The better designed sponge filter media is one that maximizes the amount of time between cleanings that the sponge media will not clog under normal use. This of course will vary even by the same manufacturer due to what the sponge Filter Media was designed for. For instance a Filter Max #2 is a fine sponge media that will slow much quicker in a tank with high bio load than a Filter Max #3, often requiring more frequent rinses in de-chlorinated water. When the flow slow or water begins to flow around the sponge media (such as in many Aqua Clear Filters), you need to rinse/clean your sponge filter media. The best method is to use used aquarium water from a water change and squeeze the sponge several times until nothing more is expelled form the sponge. You also may use de-chlorinated tap water or well water (without added chemicals) for rinsing your sponge media. I often will use both methods and I will use the de-chlorinated tap water for the final rinses until the rinse water in no longer dirty. The reason to rinse with used tank water or de-chlorinated tap or well water is to not destroy beneficial aerobic bacterial colonies that form in the pores of the sponge media over time. Depending upon your aquariums (or ponds) bio load, as well as the pore size of your sponge material, the frequency of rinses can vary. Generally a well “mated” sponge filter or other filter that employs a sponge (assuming some quality, as some sponge filter available are of VERY poor quality) will need to be rinsed every two weeks, although once week or as long as once per month are not unusual. Often in aquariums or ponds with multiple filters, the frequency of rinses is less due to the redundancy of filtration, which is what I recommend. When your sponge media starts to degrade it needs to be changed. At this time it is best to add an additional sponge to your aquarium ahead of time to allow this sponge to “seed” with aerobic bacteria. This can be achieved by simply placing the new sponge in an area of high water flow and high dissolved oxygen or adding a second sponge filter, pre filter, HOB filter, ECT in your aquarium an allowing the sponge media to “seed”. The time I generally allow is from 14-21 days for proper bacterial “seeding”. SPONGE FILTER ATTRIBUTES: [1] Simple to use, most run on very basic air pumps or power heads. One of the best beginner aquarist filters due simplicity and cost. But sponge filters are also popular with breeders and research facilities, as they are very efficient yet simple filters. [2] Excellent biological filtration, they are very porous and can maintain very large aerobic bacterial colonies in proportion to the space they occupy. [3] Easily the filter of choice for hospital as well as breeding aquariums (most professional Discus breeders use sponge filters). In hospital aquariums Sponge Filters will NOT remove medications like filters that contain chemical medias such as carbon. Sponge filters also allow for bare bottom tanks eliminating the problems of potentially disease harboring and sometimes medication absorbing sand/gravel in hospital/breeding tanks (some gravels will absorb chemical treatments such as copper, methylene blue, malachite green). [4] Mechanical filtration, although they are not the best mechanical filters, they still do a good job for their small size and make excellent secondary or primary filters when used in combination with other filters such as HOB, canister, or internal filters. [5] Very few “dead” areas trapping pockets of noxious bacteria, unlike under gravel filters and even wet/dry filters (which in my experience are over rated). Quality sponge filters are superior to also over rated Bio wheels for bio filtration as per my own tests performed at many of my multiple aquarium clients. [6] Simple to clean, simply remove the sponge and squeeze or rinse in old aquarium water or de-chlorinated tap water. The advantage here is the aquarist is less likely to ignore cleaning the filter (unlike many complex filters), which can lead to organic build up, increasing nitrates and lowering KH and ph. [7] Sponge filters are great in Marine aquariums in a few of different ways; *One way is in a sump using a Hydro Pond Filter IV or similar attached to a high flow pump as a pre-filter (this is a very efficient application!), or with a small power head pump (such as a Via Aqua 480) run separately in the sump as a bio filter; *The other (usually in a reef application) was inside the aquarium with either an air pump or power head. The beauty of either application is they are simple to rinse out with used aquarium water, which in the reef application was especially useful in that I could dispose of allot of debris before it cycled and produced Nitrates. They are an excellent compliment to “live rock” filtered reef aquariums. Sponge filters are excellent in marine and reef aquariums. They are easily rinsed which keeps them from becoming the “Nitrate Factories” that many other mechanical/ bio filters can become such as canister filters or even bio balls. Sponge filters or sponge Pre-Filters (including the Hydro Pond IV) work great in conjunction to the Berlin Filter method due to their ease of cleaning and simplicity of set up. I have used them here as additional in tank filters for Nano Reefs, Pre Filter before entering a sump, or very often inside the sump of Refugium or Mud filter attached to the pump for added bio/mechanical filtration (make sure to rinse every week for maximum efficiency and for low nitrates. “For more about the Berlin Filter Method and Mud filters.” [8] Probably the best choice of filtration for breeding tanks, Betta tanks or bowls, hospital tanks, and even discus aquariums, due to the fact that they do not “suck” in baby or weak fish or attract noxious bacteria. [9] Easily the best filter for a small tank or bowl, especially for bettas with there long fins that can get caught on intakes of HOB or other filters. They excel over UGF in bowls or small tanks in that they are easier maintenance, and more efficient biologically and mechanically. [10] For cichlid breeding they excel, as they are not easily disturbed by cichlids tendency to dig. [11] Inexpensive [12] Now available in larger sizes for aquariums over 60 gallons. These sponge filters are a great compliment to canister or HOB filters.  [12] Sponge filters can even be used in ponds. With the "Hydro Pond Filter", simply attach a power head pump (such as a Via Aqua 2600), then run your return line wherever you like (waterfall, ECT). Or the Hydro Pond II can be run off a simple air pump. These filters can work on ponds up to 1500 gallons (or more with additional units). These Hydro Pond Filters (the #4 in particular) also work well in large aquariums or in the sumps of large filtration systems, especially when you need flows in excess of 400 gph. [13] There also are sponge filters that are used as a "Pre-Filter" for intakes of canister, wet/dry, power filters and more. They offer increased bio-filtration to your existing system, as well as protection from baby fish, plants, or anemones from being sucked into the intake of your existing filter. It is also important to note (as they are a lot of anecdotal comments floating around the internet), that not all sponge pre-filters are the same (including Hydro sponge). A Filter Max #1 is NOT going to allow the efficient use of a filter such as a Whisper 30, where as a Filter Max #3 with the higher flow, more porous sponge will. I should also be noted that the Hydro Pond Filter #4 can be used as a pre-filter in aquariums as well and actually improves filtration on many canister filters, especially micron filters such as a Magnum (they also decrease frequency of cleaning and mulm build-up within canister filters) These pre-filter sponges are especially useful for HOB (power filters) as they increase the bio capacity (far more than bio wheels in experiments I have done) and retain the aerobic bio filtering bacteria during filter media changes. With out these Sponge pre-filters, HOB filters are poor to fair bio filters, with them they are excellent. [14] Sponge filters are great for planted aquariums, they do not interfere with root structures and maintain a biological balance that ideal for planted aquariums. [15] Sponge Internal Filters or pre filter attached to a power head are great for powering UV Sterilizers in small aquariums or Nano Reefs. They are also useful for acting as a pre-filter for under rated Fluidized filters Here are a few myths: * Bio Wheels and Wet Dry filters are superior to sponge filters.- MYTH In theory the added oxygen or bio wheels and wet dry filters is great, but in practicality the channeling of wet dry filters and the deposit build up of Bio Wheels lowers bacteria surface area, while the fact remains that with the proper dissolved oxygen levels your fish should have is more than adequate for a healthy sponge filter to maintain proper bio colonies. Compare a Wet Dry filter to a tank with live rock and other means of mechanical filtration, and you will find the live rock superior even though it is under water. * All sponge filters are the same and only for small aquariums. –MYTH The flow design, sponge media material, and sponge size all are important. A large sponge filter with sponge media of a high and proper sized pore count is and extremely efficient filter. Compare the sponge design of the patented Hydro Sponge to a cheaper Lees or Tetra sponge and it is obvious, as these cheaper sponges clog faster and do not have the pore density of Hydro Sponge filters. An undersized sponge filter (including a Hydro Sponge or Filter Max) will work no better than an under sized filter of any other type, especially when not cared for regularly. *Sponge Pre-Filter lower efficiency of power filters or canister filters- MYTH Only if you attach a low flow dense-pore sponge filter to a higher flow power filter or use one of the “cheapie” brands available. A sponge pre-filter is certainly not for everyone, but they due have their place and with proper installation can actually improve filtration via pre-filtration of larger debris and prevention of baby fish being trapped. For sponge Filters, Filter-Max sponge pre-filters and more: FILTERS. For more aquarium information and articles (pond too), please visit this site:   
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