UV TROUBLESHOOTING, BALLAST, STARTER, STERILIZER OR OTHER BULB PROBLEMS

This troubleshooting Guide is intended for most all UV Sterilizers and Replacement Bulbs/Lamps, NOT just those purchased from American Aquarium Products

A Little About Our UV Bulbs/Lamps

• First, if your UV Germicidal Bulb/Lamp was purchased from us (American Aquarium Products), we replace the first UV bulb once up to 6 months, regardless of fault as a customer courtesy (even though inspection of returns show 90% of returns are caused by shorts or other malfunctions of the customers UV unit); please see our Return Policy Page for more information

• Please note that we sell first quality UV Hot Cathode Germicidal UV Bulbs (UV-C low-pressure mercury arc lamps) and even still we check EVERY bulb and as well fire random bulbs from new orders we receive to ensure that we ship you a working bulb/lamp so that our customers have as little "hassle" as possible from defects. When we "fire" these bulbs they often are left with a “hazed” or used appearance, but please be assured that we perform this time consuming process to insure you the best quality/hassle free UVC bulb.

• The premium long life UV Hot Cathode Germicidal UV Compact Bulbs we sell (5, 7, 9, 11, 12, & 13 Watt G23/G7; and the 18, 24, 36, & 55 Watt G11/G24) generally take about 1-3 minutes to initially “fire”, so please be patient. Once fired the bulb will fire quickly from this point on.

Further General Troubleshooting:

1. First let me point out that it is highly recommended that you change your UVC bulb every six months in aquariums or purifiers for optimum performance (although many purifiers can run up to a year per lamp change) and every spring in ponds (except in warm winter climates, then every six months) for optimum performance.
   Often failure to follow this basic maintenance procedure not only renders your UV-C Sterilizer, Purifier, Clarifier, etc. basically a useless piece of equipment with a pretty blue glow, but it also lulls the owner into believing that the UV Unit is properly functioning when in fact the transformer has also deteriorated to the point it is no longer producing the adequate energy to light a high output or new UV-C Bulb/Lamp so that when one finally changes the lamp, it does not light.
   This is not to say this is always the case with a forgotten/poorly maintained UV Unit, but in my 30+ years of hands-on field experience where a client would call me out to service an older UV Sterilizer that had not been maintained in 2-3 years (or more), the replacement bulb often would not "light" and the unit either required a new ballast or to be totally replaced.
   
   
2. Often when a bulb does not work it is the UV unit itself. This is especially true for the Low end Jebo, Aqua Medic, and Garden Treasure Compact UV Sterilizers which are of very poor quality and low durability in our experience.
   As well this is also often problem with the low end Pondmaster Submersible Straight Tube clarifiers/sterilizers which are of very poor quality and low durability in our experience (often leaks caused by poor seals will blow the UV filament with these units).
   
   
3. Broken or Blown Filament; Broken Filaments are generally the result of electrical shorts, rough handling, or simply a defective UV Bulb/Lamp.
   
   Here are a few of causes of a broken/blown filament in more detail:
   
   
   • Rough Handling/ Defective UV Bulb; It is often difficult to tell the difference whether UV Bulb that has a broken filament was handled roughly during shipping or simply defective (sometimes using a magnifying glass can spot a weak spot).
     However it is usually quite clear the difference from a filament that is broken/blown due to an electrical short, as the "blown" filament will generally have "scorch marks" (sometimes very dark scorch marks, sometimes subtle scorch marks). That said another key point based on my years of UV experience with literally 1000s of bulbs/lamps and that is you can still have electrical short "blown" filament that leaves no scorch marks, but you will NEVER have a defective UV Bulb/Lamp WITH scorch marks.
     
     
   • Moisture Leaks or other causes of Electrical Shorts; this is a very common problem with many submersible UV Sterilizers (such as the previously mentioned Pond Master) as well as first generation internal Aquarium UVs.
     A blown filament is often a dead giveaway to this problem, which can occur in just about any UV used in water applications (including many quartz Sleeve Compacts such as the Aqua Medic and even the popular Turbo Twist)
     If your UV Sterilizer is blowing filaments, I suggest cleaning the UV very carefully and inspecting for moisture. If no moisture is found, likely your ballast has shorted as this will also result in a blown filament (moisture causes a temporary short).
     
     To prevent this problem, make sure to place your Pond UV in an area where it is shielded by a stone or some other cover, regardless of how weather proof your UV Sterilizer Manufacturer may claim it is.
     
     For Aquariums, make sure your UV is not right next to a sump where moisture can easily cause a problem, or as in one case for me when cleaning a clients aquarium, I accidentally spilled water from canister filter into the UV Sterilizer causing a temporary short that blew out the UV Bulb (cleaning the moisture and replacing the bulb solved this problem as well as being more careful in the future)
     
     As a positive, if moisture is the cause of the short and resulting blown filament; drying out of your UV Sterilizer most often solves this problem
     
     It is also generally easy to tell if the cause of your UV Bulb broken filament is from a defective lamp or a short;
     The picture to the left shows a UV Bulb that blew due to an electrical short.
     
     A bulb/lamp that blows the filament due to a short (such as caused by moisture) will have much more noticeable black scorch inside the quartz lamp near the now blown filament.
     
     As later noted in section #7, on occasion (either due to a poor ballast or electrical surge) a UV Bulb/Lamp is "blown" due to too much power being allowed by the ballast or a surge in a electrical. This is a difficult problem to diagnose from my experience(& relatively rare), however a surge protector can help prevent this problem (although sometimes a ballast is failing or failed and a surge protector will not help for this).
     
     In some cases as again noted later in section #7, it is possible to "blow" a new bulb/lamp while an older bulb that requires much less energy to fire, does not "blow". In my 30 plus years of hands on UV Sterilizer experience, I have witnessed many a new (& known working/pre-tested) lamps suffer a blown filament after blown filament, all the while an older bulb does not blow (the usual cause when this happens is a surge in voltage from the ballast which often does not damage a bulb with exhausted or low gasses).
     So do not make that erroneous assumption that a blown filament when your older bulb works indicates a defective bulb, as although this can indicate a defective bulb, in my experience this is a poor test of whether a bulb is defective or not; Better to look at whether or not scorch marks are present on the UV lamp as this will tell whether it was/is a short or a defective bulb/lamp.
     We at American Aquarium Products still replace as a one time customer courtesy the first UV bulb free (as it is possible to have a new high performance bulb simply blow out immediately, but it is imperative one checks their sterilizer for shorts or moisture, as a second replacement that is test fired prior to shipping is verifiable proof of a short or similar.
     
     Very often in instances of "blown" bulbs while older bulbs still "fire" are the result of a short or similar.
     The reason is that it takes much more voltage to fire a new hot cathode UV Bulb and if there is a short present (whatever the cause), during this high voltage start/firing this often causes the new Bulb to "blow" (see the Section #7 for further information).
     
     
   • Leaking Quartz Sleeve; a small leak around a quartz sleeve O Ring that often appears AFTER opening a UV Sterilizer to clean the unit and change the UV-C bulb/lamp is a common cause for moisture (sometimes a major leak too).
     Make sure the O Ring that seals the Quartz Sleeve is lubricated with Petroleum Jelly or Silicone Lubricant (preferred) prior to replacement.
     If a leak is suspected or for simply better prevention of a future leak, removing this O ring prior to inserting the Quartz Sleeve back into the unit and lubricating the O Ring is highly suggested. As well for known cases of O Ring leaks (with an O Ring Replacement is not readily available); carefully adding to windings/layers of Teflon Tape prior to reseating the O Ring has solved 80-90% of leaks for me.
   
   
   
   • Although very rare from my experience; It is also noteworthy that surges can blow a bulb, which are not as easily checked.
     Using a surge protector outlet can protect your UV Sterilizer (& bulb/lamp). This said the vast majority of "spikes" results in blown filaments, not simply non lighting or flashing bulbs.
   
   
   
4. Switches; Many UV Sterilizers (such as the Terminator) have switches that are depressed when the light assembly is properly attached/screwed on, however these switches can get bent or for other reasons not depress properly, thus resulting in a UV bulb that either does not light or in the case of partial contact light only part of the time.
   This is usually easily detected by depressing the switch using a screw driver with the bulb inserted and the unit plugged in (Make sure to Shield your Eyes/Skin when testing, and then only test for a few seconds this way). If this is the problem, this is also usually easily corrected by bending the switch into a better position or tightening the switch (if this is an option)
   
   It is not uncommon to simply have a UV Bulb that is not inserted correctly, thus the new lamp will not light. The TMC UV Sterilizers and many other T5 & T8 have lamp contacts that are easy to make the mistake of thinking the lamp is properly seated when it is not seated correctly with the contacts. Many compact UV Sterilizers also have contacts that are difficult to tell whether seated correctly or not.
   
   
5. Flashing (turning on and then back off then back on in constant cycles) generally indicates a bad starter for magnetic ballasts, assuming your UV Sterilizer/Purifier/Clarifier has a magnetic ballast that uses a starter.
   However many electronic ballasts/transformers do not have starters (which the majority UV Sterilizers sold use electronic ballasts of varying quality; some excellent, some junk), these simply just fail prematurely; sometimes completely where nothing will happen with your UV lamp or sometimes partly where it cannot pre-heat a hot cathode UV-C lamp properly resulting in "flashing".
   This can also simply indicate a bad/defective bulb or a loose wire, although this often indicates the "starter" if the ballast is magnetic. With a Magnetic Ballast, this can represent about 80-90% of flashing issues from my experience.
   
   However since most UV ballasts are electronic nowadays, the flashing is the result of the ballast simply not having the correct "surge" voltage to light the UV-C Bulb (see also Section #7).
   
   It is also noteworthy that hot cathode low pressure mercury UV Bulbs are "aged" as much by each "start" as much as time of use. So if your UV Sterilizer is on a timer with many cycles, this will often cause a bulb to fail in 1/2 to 1/3 the time (depending upon start cycles). Flashing is common with a premature failure of this type.
   
   Finally, if your ballast is electronic, I would test your ballast as per section #7, look for moisture as per section #3 (although a flashing bulb will NOT have a broken filament), or simply replace your UV Bulb (if purchased at American Aquarium Products, a bulb can be replaced one time per purchase within 6 months)
   
   See also section #8
   
   
6. Starters: A fluorescent starters function is to send a delayed shot of high-voltage electricity to the gas within the fluorescent bulb. The delay allows the gas to become ionized so that it can conduct electricity.
   Unfortunately there is no practical way to test a starter, however replacement of the Starter that Sterilizers/Clarifiers equipped with magnetic ballasts utilize is a simple and inexpensive problem to fix.
   Failure of the starter is a common problem with magnetic ballasts (NOT electronic ballasts).
   For instance the TMC 15 and 25 watt UV Sterilizer utilizes a FS-2 Starter, while the Fish Mate 8 Watt & 16 Watt (the 16 Watt is a pair of 8 watt T5 Straight tube UV-C Lamps) utilizes the FS-5 Starter.
   Here is a rough guide of Starters versus wattage
   *4- 12 Watt= FS-5
   *8-25 Watt= FS-2
   *30-50 Watt= FS-3
   
   
7. New UV Lamp not lighting; It is noteworthy that an old bulb lighting in a unit is not proof that the UV Sterilizer is OK, as I have seen many units not “fire up” a new bulb yet work with an old lamp due to a weak ballast that does not produce adequate energy to fire a new high performance UV Lamp (sometimes a weak ballast can "fire" an new low performance UV Bulb/lamp).
   In fact about 95% of such non firing of new high performance bulb/lamps while firing older or low performance bulbs are not defective and work perfectly fine in a properly functioning UV Sterilizer!
   
   Explanation;
   It takes more energy to fire a new high intensity hot cathode UV bulb/lamp than an old lamp or a low intensity cold cathode UV Bulb (basically by low intensity, I mean "cheap" & sometimes original equipment UV Bulbs are not high intensity UV Bulbs), and this is a more common problem than many realize based on our 30+ years experience, however this problem generally only occurs with electronic ballasts, not the magnetic ballasts that require a starter.
   It is also noteworthy that often when this "phenomenon" of an older lamp lighting when a newer UV Bulb/Lamp will not often involves an older bulb that is well past its useful life. It takes very little energy to light a 2-3 year old UV-C Bulb. Your UV bulb should be changed every 6 months for optimum performance or every year for minimum performance (or in cooler climate ponds). This phenomenon is much less common with bulbs changed within proper intervals.
   
   See the section in this article under UV Sterilizer Maintenance (3/4 through the article) for tips on testing your ballast:
   UV Sterilization
   
   It is also noteworthy that even then an electronic ballast may have the correct voltage, but cannot correctly pre-heat a hot cathode UV Bulb (this is not a problem with magnetic ballasts, assuming a functioning starter).
   This is because to fire the gas in fluorescent hot cathode UV-C lamps, this can exceed 500V plus and exceeds a Multi Meters limitation for testing. In fact this inability to "surge" in voltage is a very common electronic ballast failure, regardless of brand!
   
   Ballast Replacement:
   If your electronic ballast has failed (& you are reasonably "DIY handy"), you can often find a common magnetic ballast to replace your electronic ballast. Just make sure that any replacement magnetic ballast has a rating within a few watts of your UV Bulb (do not forget to purchase the correct starter for your magnetic ballast too).
   
   Do not make the false assumption you MUST replace your electronic ballast with the exact ballast supplied by your manufacturers UV Sterilizer; An electronic ballast can also be replaced with another manufacturers electronic ballast, again as long as the rated lamp service falls within your UV-C bulbs wattage.
   
   As well do not assume that if your ballast will light one UV Bulb and not another, that the problem is the bulb. A ballast that will not light a hot cathode bulb is a bad or weak ballast. It takes almost nothing to light a cold cathode bulb. Keeping an inferior or weak ballast to light an inferior UV bulb will only result in very little true UV Sterilization and thus raises the question of "why even keep your UV Sterilizer when it will perform alomost no level one UV Sterilization?"
   
   

   Update 10/30/11 After a meeting with one of our sister maintenance companies in LA, he noted that of the dozens of Coralife Turbo Twist UVs, he has now had 100% failure with their ballasts over the last few years which includes replacing many to only result in failures again. If you are having trouble with your UVC lamp/bulb in ANY Coralife UV, I strongly recommend replacing your ballast or better simply replacing the UV with a better design such as the TMC Vecton Advantage UV!



8. Most of the compact & straight tube bulbs we sell our high performance, long life (8000-10,000 hour) Hot Cathode UV-C bulbs that take as long as a few minutes to light, so please give your unit some time as it may flicker for a while prior to lighting. Once initially "fired", the UVC bulb should immediately fire up from this point on. This is due to a delayed shot of high-voltage electricity to the gas within the fluorescent bulb. The delay allows the gas to become ionized so that it can conduct electricity
   In fact our UV Hot Cathode Germicidal UV Bulbs are superior to what many consider to be the leaders in UV-C Lamps/Bulbs with a higher output, however because of the high energy gasses these UVC replacement lights often take a few minutes to warm up upon the first firing which sometimes makes persons consider the light defective, however this is simply typical of this type of high output hot cathode UV-C low-pressure mercury arc lamps!
   
   As well continued flickering can simply be a bad bulb, although this is very rare to receive one from us this can happen (especially if there is damage in shipping), in this case please follow our return policy and return the bulb for replacement.
   See: Return Policy
   
   
9. Finally, please note that some G11 Bases (the Standard G11 base is used for 18, 24, 36, & 55 Watt H UVC Bulbs) vary in the configuration of the notch, HOWEVER as per tests with multiple UV Sterilizers, this does NOT affect the ability of slightly different G11 bulbs to fit. Sometimes you need to simply “push” the bulb in tighter or the fit is slightly more loose in fit. Any G11 bulbs returned for this reason can be refunded, however shipping will not be returned.
   
   For further information, please see the UV Bulb section in or return policy page:
   Return Policy; UV Bulb Problems