  
 SALTWATER AQUARIUM SET-UP/ SYSTEMS SUGGESTIONS This article is meant as to show many possible ways to set up a marine aquarium for fish/reef  |
|
SALTWATER AQUARIUM SET-UP/ SYSTEMS SUGGESTIONS This article is meant as to show many possible ways to set up a marine aquarium for fish/reef |
|
By Carl Strohmeyer Updated 2/17/10 The purpose of this article is to give SEVERAL viable options for setting up a saltwater aquarium that WORK! Some of the options are well known, others are not as well known but just as workable and often times even better than those set out by the anecdotal standards of many in the hobby that will not think outside the box. This includes methods such as a drilled canister filter that is set up with volcanic rock, or Crushed coral crumbles, or Bio Home so as to not become the nitrate factories that is a poor label by those who have not corrected installed them in Marine Aquarium. Another lesser known option is the cousin to the popular Bio Cube and that is the Internal Wet/Dry Bio filter, again set up PROPERLY, they can be an excellent filter system.  The diagram to the left is intended only has ONE way to set up a saltwater aquarium, as there are other excellent combinations including Refugiums/Mud Filters (which usually also include a protein skimmer), Fluidized combinations, Wet/Dry, and even HOB with other filter combination as well (this article is NOT intended to be an exhaustive reference for all effective methods to set up a marine or reef aquarium, rather allow many to think outside the box for methods many are not aware of, yet are proven to work). I strongly recommend using live rock crumbles in place of ceramic bio media for de-nitrification. When this (or often volcanic rock can be substituted) are used this can avoid the “nitrate factory” aspect that these filters have been labeled with (and unfortunately unfairly by many uniformed aquarists that have only passed along anecdotal information about aquarium set ups rather than experimenting with the many different set ups that I have in the literally 100s of marine tanks I have set up for clients, many high end too that would not appreciate a low quality set up!). So be wary of those who slam these or similar systems like the one suggested below, they have probably picked this anecdotal advice on some of the aquatic forums that have not done their homework! This set up is recommended for a beginner OR advanced aquarist and also allows expansion into a reef set up provided proper lighting is added later such as VHO, SHO, T2, or MH (especially for hard corals). Please click on the pictures above and below to enlarge  Here is another way to set up a marine tank using a sump, micron filer bag, live rock, a skimmer, high performance pump, and UV Sterilizer (please click to enlarge).This is a variation on the wet dry system, but without the bio balls which (like the common filter media used in canister filters) can cause high amounts of nitrates (often referred to as a nitrate factory). In this method the live rock is both a nitrifying AND de-nitrifying filter. This also employs a micron media bag for added filtration.  Pure Berlin Method; This method only uses multiple power heads, ample live rock, a deep sand bed (4+ inches), usually a Protein Skimmer and often a Algae Scrubber, Refugium or Mud filter (which can often be combined). Please Click on the picture of the Algae Scrubber concept Diagram tank combination to enlarge (a new trend, diversion from Refugiums & similar that many find excellent results such as nearly non existent nitrate levels). For more about Algae Scrubber, Refugium or Mud filter, please visit this article about Aquarium Filtration: "Aquarium Filtration" This is a method that is often promoted by Reef purists, however I do not generally recommend this for beginners as this method does not allow for poor feeding habits (as well as many other mistakes common to newbies) and since UV Sterilizers are often not employed; germicidal filtration as well as the very important benefits of improved Redox are missing. A common statement by the purists that recommend this system over any other method is unfortunately based on some false assumptions: (1) Any filtration in the end produces nitrates; NOT if live rock or volcanic rock crumbles are used in filters (in place of the usual media that only attracts aerobic bacteria) as well as proper cleaning (& vacuuming) procedures and regular rinsing of pre filters (sponges are very simple and quick to rinse). (2) The live rock, live sand and protein skimmer will handle all waste problems; NOT true as I too have set up MANY of these systems for clients that have then overwhelmed their aquariums with over feeding or other poor maintenance issues often resulting in large amounts of detritus on the bottom of the aquarium and worse (this is not to say this will happen, however I have observed this often especially with clients that provided the majority of their own maintenance) (3) UV Sterilizers are not necessary and can do harm; ONLY half right, a UV Sterilizer is not necessary however I have documented better Redox, improved longevity vitality among inhabitants as well less disease outbreaks when UVs are used. As to UV Sterilizers doing harm, I will refer the readers to these articles: “UV Sterilization; How it Works “UV Sterilizers, posts dealing with what UVC can and cannot do for your Aquarium or Pond Other entry level considerations include:   ReSun BF100 and 200 wet/dry filters This filter is the under rated cousin of the popular Bio Cube Aquariums and shares many of the exact same parts (it is also made in the same factory!)It is an economical wet dry filter that slips inside your aquarium and also contains a space for your heater. This works well up to a 45-60 gallon aquarium, although I recommend replacing some of the filer media with live rock crumbles and a nylon filter bag filled with Oolite sand for de-nitrification. I also still strongly recommend live rock inside the aquarium, additional power head (or internal filter) and would suggest a Protein Skimmer and/or UV Sterilizer (this filter also easily connects to a UV sterilizer without too much fuss, see the picture to the left). Honestly with the correct media, this can make for an awesome system, even for higher end advanced reef aquariums as with live rock crumbles in them they can easily propagate copepods and act as far more than just a “filter” The ReSun BF200 can be easily used in pairs (or more) for larger tanks such as two for say a 100 gallon with a UV Sterilizer on one (the other without to allow for better copepod propagation).   In fact, the ReSun BF 200 filter combined with a high end Protein Skimmer such as the V2 Skim 400, and a Propeller pump such as the Seio 320 can make for a high end marine/reef set up for an aquarium under 60-75 gallons along with a deep sand bed and live rock and good lighting (see later in the article for more about lighting). The Via Aqua Multi Skimmer in place of the Canister Filter for tanks under 60 gallon. This filter has the UV Sterilizer, Protein Skimmer, and a basic HOB Filter all in one. I would still recommend additional power heads and especially the live rock. Also a Filter Max #3 Pre-filter attached to this would improve bio capacity (especially during filter cartridge changes). I would also note that the Multi Skimmer does NOT have the capacity of a canister filter such as the Via Aqua 750 or Eheim 2217, nor is its protein skimmer of the caliber of the Tropic Marine V-2 Skim protein skimmers capacity, nor the UV Sterilizer of the caliber of the Custom 15 Watt UV Sterilizer (or similar). The VA Multi Skimmer is a relatively inexpensive (as compared to similar products bought separately) unit that is practical for entry level saltwater aquarists desiring a simple system for low cost. I would also strongly suggest an internal power filter or power head to compliment this unit and provide better flow through your live rock.  Rio Nano Skimmer This is again an entry level Hang on the back (HOB/ Power Filter) combined with simple and basic Protein Skimmer. Like the VA Multi Skimmer this is not a high end product, however it is useful for beginners or those on a budget with a 40 gallon or smaller marine aquarium. As with the previous two suggestions, I would recommend ample live rock and deep sand (2-3 inches of #00 with ½” of #3 crushed coral on top) as well as a power head (such as the ReSun King 2) or internal filter for better water movement. Also a UV Sterilizer is another possible addition (connected to a power head, see this article for how including a video: How UV Sterilization Works)Here are some key points and options that should be considered:  *Instead of a lot of ceramic filter media and other filter media which only perform nitrification, the canister filter (or wet/dry) should be loaded with live rock fragments/crumbles or volcanic rock this is to keep the canister filter from becoming a nitrate factory by providing anaerobic and aerobic filtration. I recommend the live rock/volcanic rock crumbles be place in the first 50% of the filter that the water passes through. Another alternative to live rock crumbles is Bio Home; this unique product is made from sintered glass and is vastly more porous than the ceramic filter media. The Bio Home will allow anaerobic bacterial colonies to form as well for de-nitrification (as will the live rock crumbles and volcanic rock). Bio Home is a new product and should prove to be even better than even live rock crumbles in de-nitrification.For further discussion of filter media, please see this article: Aquarium Answers; Aquarium and Pond Filter Media. *Live Rock in the Aquarium is also a must for utilization of the Berlin filter method which basics turns this rock into a large nitrifying and de-nitrifying filter provided you have adequate circulation. A deep sand bed is also VERY important for de-nitrification; I prefer at least 3 inches of fine #00 oolite size sand with a ½ inch layer of #3 crushed coral on top for some aerobic nitrifying bacteria as well as improved ease in cleaning. Please see the full Marine Basics article for more about this subject: “AQUARIUM SALTWATER BASICS; information, resources, and more. *Additional power heads and/or internal filter add necessarily circulation (and more filter redundancy in the case of an internal filter or Sponge Filter attached to a power head).*The UV Sterilizer, although not essential is a device that will aid in your Redox Potential as well as disease prevention and I personally strongly recommend them. I generally turn them on after the first week. *Protein Skimmers are another useful suggestion that can be added after the first few weeks (they do little in the first few weeks due to lack of organics in the water column).  *Lighting can be improved as you step up to more advanced inhabitants such as anemones and especially corals. The best choice with all the advances and when one considers lights in an apples to apples comparison (not the vastly out dated watts per gallon so-called rule) are the Aquarium LED Lights. The latest LED lights will outperform ALL fluorescent lights including HO T5 and VHO CFL. When you consider that the newer LED aquarium lights last 50,000 hours, the price is less over the life of the fixture when compared to HO T5 such as the Current 39 watt that might be ½ the cost, but lasts only 1/6 the time and consumes 3-4 times the energy for the same outputs; The Aqua Ray Aquarium LED lights are the better value for your aquarium and the environment when compared apples to apples in terms of focused lumens, lumens per watt, PAR, much less wasted light energy in the yellow/green spectrum & more.  Another excellent choice to step up to are the newer SHO lights shown to the left (click to enlarge). These are powerful lights with high lumens per watt, require only basic incandescent fixtures (rather than some of the expensive ballast required by many high end lights) and just as important have the necessary PAR required for stony corals, clams, and other sessile species that depend on photosynthesis of zooanthellic algae (despite some of the anecdotal information that although more than 20 years old and outdated still passed around in the hobby). The SHO lights can also be used in combination with high end Metal Halide such as the EcoSystems Sun HQI MH or the even newer high end LED lights such as the TMC Aqua Ray Marine Lights, Fixtures (Pictured to the left in a “Marine Blue” combination).These newer, and less expensive than earlier LED lights can also be used by themselves (especially for tanks under 50 gallons) or in combination with T2, T5, Metal Halide or simple and inexpensive CFL lamps. For tanks over 100 gallons, these compact TMC Aqua Ray Marine Lights can be used in the previously mention before mentioned combination with SHO for greater economy. Other good lighting choices include CFL, New Generation T2, T5 (slightly less then T2 technology though, & VHO lights). In fact the T2 lights can be linked together and have high usable light output making it not only excellent light for small to medium Basic Reef and Nano Reef tanks, but excellent lights for Fish only or FOWLR tanks. For example; two 13 Watt T2 fixtures can easily illuminate one 60 gallon Fish Only/FOWLR tank for very little cost in energy. Please see this article for MUCH more in depth and updated information about aquarium lighting: “How Aquarium Lighting Works”  *Calcium Reactor; this is a useful device for maintaining bio available calcium in reef tanks with large amounts of stony corals. As well these Calcium Reactors can maintain positive calcium ions that are essential for fish health/Redox balance as well.See this article for more: Aquarium Calcium, Marine, Freshwater  Finally, if nitrates are a problem (with or without a Protein Skimmer);You might consider several other options such as a Deep Sand filter with can be a simple DIY project using either a 10 gallon aquarium or even a bucket. Please click on the picture to see the article to the left. Refugiums and Mud filters (or combinations of all three in one unit) are also considerations. Above all, if nitrates are a problem with your system, make sure you watch your feeding AND use live rock crumbles or similar porous rock (such as volcanic rock or “Bio Home”) instead of bio balls, or other filter media that only attracts nitrifying aerobic bacteria. For my FULL Marine Basics article, please visit this site: “AQUARIUM SALTWATER BASICS; information, resources, and more. For more aquarium information and articles (pond too), please visit this site:   | Saltwater_fish | Saltwater-set-up | | Basic_Aquarium_Principles | Basic_Saltwater | Aquarium_Disease | Aquarium_Lighting | Goldfish_disease | Aquarium_cleaning | Nitrogen_Cycle | Redox_Potential | Clear-Pond | Aquarium_Filtration | Articles | | Return Home | Downloads | Shipping and Return Policy | Contact Us | Great Links | Aquarium_Information | Privacy-Policy | |
||