  
 SOUTH AMERICAN CICHLIDS; |
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SOUTH AMERICAN CICHLIDS; |
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RAM CICHLIDS; German, Crown (Bolivian), Gold  Size: Approximately 4 inches (10 cm.) Scientific Name: Microgeophagus ramierzi aka; German, Blue, Gold, Ramirez's dwarf cichlid Microgeophagus altispinosa aka; Bolivian Ram, Crown Ram, Butterfly Ram Description: Ram Cichlids are somewhat stocky in shape. In Male Cichlids, the first few dorsal rays are longer and more pointed than others. The ramierzi species tends to be more colorful, but not as hardy (the two fish on the left side of the picture). While the altispinosa species is slightly less colorful, however a generally more hardy adaptable fish (the fish on th right side of the picture). Natural Habitat: Bolivian Ram; Bolivia, Brazil. German/Blue/Gold Ram; The rivers of Venezuela, and Columbia Temperament: Although many males may show typical male cichlid dominance, these fish are basically mild mannered and do best in groups with others of their own kind and in community tanks with med.-large Tetras, Discus, Angels, sometimes Gouramis and similar. I have kept them in tanks as small as 15 gallons successfully, however groups are best kept in 30 gallons or larger. Water Parameters: Microgeophagus ramierzi can be sensitive to poor water conditions or incorrect water parameters while the Bolivian (Crown) Rams are less sensitive in my experience. This said, I would aim for the best conditions regardless of species kept. The Ram Cichlids do best in an Amazon River Aquarium environment which includes clean well filtered water, a stable pH (best under 7.5), warm temperatures between 79 - 83°F (26 to 28 C), some KH for stability (50 ppm plus), and despite some claims by others, Rams need some mineralization (calcium, magnesium, etc.) for correct osmoregulation. Products such as Bio Lif that utilize Indian Almond leaves aid in Aeromonas bacterial control, more natural Amazon conditions, etc. I also recommend UV Sterilization since Rams are more sensitive than many fish to water parameters and disease pathogens. Feeding: Rams are a Omnivorous to carnivorous leaning fish. A High quality such HBH Freshwater Flakes fish flake food should be the starting place of their diet, and a flake such as Spirulina 20 makes a good supplement too. Along with these basic foods; live, frozen, freeze dried brine shrimp, blood worms, white worms etc. should also be part of their diet Contributor Notes:  ANGELFISH  Size: 4-6 inches (10- 16 cm.) Scientific Name: Pterophyllum scalare. Also there is the more often wild caught Pterophyllum altum Description: One of the most popular aquarium fish for decades, Angelfish are now bred different colored varieties and patterns. They are available in both normal finned and veil varieties, often exceeding 12 inches in height from the top of their dorsal fin to the tip of their ventral fin. The Angelfish seen in most aquariums is far from the native Angels from Sout America. My experience with Angels in capitivity is that with good care, they will usually live over 10 years (maybe even 15). Natural Habitat: Amazon and its main tributary rivers Temperament: Angelfish tend to be less aggressive as compared to most. Most Angels will make peaceful community inhabitants, unless they pair off and begin to breed (then they may become much more territorial and keep other fish at bay away from their nesting area). Normally with their long fins and slow swimming movements, they rarely do damage to other fish and in fact are sometimes targets themselves by some fin nippers such as Barbs Water Parameters: Domestic Angelfish do best in waters with these parameters based on my experience (& research): A temperature of 75-82 degrees F (23-28 degrees C). pH stability is MUCH more important for Domestic Angels than the actual number of which anywhere from 6.4 to 7.8 can be OK. More important is KH of about 50-100 and GH of 100 plus (keeping mind that most domestic angels are NOT used to the conditions of their wild ancestors rather the usually more hard conditions of breeders, although Altum Angels prefer softer conditions and a more narrow pH range of 6.2- 7.2)). It is also noteworthy that minerals such as Calcium play a more important role in their health than once thought. As with Rams in the previous section, adding products such as Bio Lif that contain Indian Almond leaves will improve health and vitality, although with Angels I do not view this as essential as with Ram Cichlids. Feeding: Angelfish are basically carnivores however they will eat most foods offered, though they seem to prefer for worms such as blackworms or bloodworms. I strongly recommend a balanced Tropical Flake as well such as Omega or HBH Tropical Flake Frenzy and as well gut loading the worms or other live foods in Spirulina 20 so as to more closely duplicate how the Angel would more naturally gain certain nutrients(or at least soaking frozen/FD foods in a soup of Spirulina) is also important. Contributor Notes: By Carl Angel fish are one of the more rewarding fish to keep and even breed and these fish also have interesting personalities as well (typical of most Cichlids IMO). If Altum Angels are to be kept, make sure that they are acclimated VERY slowly with a drip system of acclimation as they are very sensitive to sudden pH changes and high ammonia as well (more so than most fish in my experience). Please see this article for more about this (Section #9): “Aquarium Disease Prevention”. Another note about Angelfish is that although not as common at the time of writing this article contribution, there is a disease that ravaged the angelfish breeding community in the 1990s, especially in the Far East that is often referred to as “Angelfish Aids” due to the lack of immune response and the way the Angels went down hill rapidly, eventually dying. Many studies link this to the flagellate Spironucleus, but most are inclusive IMO (& I have not ruled out viral causes myself). My point in bringing this up is to know your sources as this can take out ALL your Angels if given a foothold in the tank and prevention is about all one can due (I found UV Sterilization helped considerably as per prevention, but not treatment). SEVERUMS; Green (also known as Banded orWild), Gold  Size: 8- 9 inches (20- 23 cm.) Scientific Name: Heros severus Description: Often considered a “poor mans Discus” as they have a similar temperament and somewhat similar temperament. The most common varieties are the Gold and the Green (pictured). The Green is also sometimes called the Wild Severum Natural Habitat: Amazon and its main tributary rivers Temperament: Severums tend to be less aggressive as compared to many Cichlids. Severum temperament can be compared to that of Angels, Discus and Festivums. Severums are an excellent beginner South American Cichlid due to their ease of care, manageable temperament, and low cost. Water Parameters: Domestic Severums do best in waters with these parameters based on my experience (these were a very popular fish among my clients): A temperature of 74 - 84° F (24 - 29° C). Although Severums come from low pH water like many of their Amazon brethren, pH stability is MUCH more important for Domestic Severums than the actual number of which anywhere from 6.4 to 7.6 can be OK (native water pH ranges from 6.0 to 6.8). More important is KH of about 50-100 and GH of 100 plus (keeping mind that most domestic Severums are NOT used to the conditions of their wild ancestors rather the usually more hard conditions of breeders). It is also noteworthy that as with Angels, Rams and Discus; minerals such as Calcium play a more important role in their health than once thought. Feeding: The Severum Cichlid is an omnivore, however as similar to Uaru Cichlids they should have “veggies” in their diet to do well, and if not provided they may eat plants in the aquarium. Feeding foods such as Spirulina Flakes or pellets are a good idea for long term Severum health. Brine shrimp and mosquito larvae are also excellent supplements to their diet as is FD Plankton, Black or Bloodworms (gut loaded are best), which can be fed live, frozen, or FD. I have also had good results with Hikari or Sanyu pellets Tropical Fish/cichlids pellets fed to Severums. Contributor Notes: UARU CICHLID  Size: 10 inches (26 cm.) Scientific Name: Uaru amphiacanthoides Description: A beautiful fish in my opinion with some of the best personalities of all the Cichlids I have kept. They have a deep body with an oval disk shape. The body is a silver gray color with a large sideways tear drop shape towards the tail which is dark brown to olive in the middle of their body and have the adults have orange eyes. The young have the appearance of a leaf fish. Sexing is difficult with the only sure way is during spawning the genital papilla is visible, pointed in the male and blunt and rounded in the female, although mature males may develop a fatty hump behind the head. Natural Habitat: The Uaru Cichlid is a typical Amazon River Fish found in the Amazon-Solimoes River drainage as well as the Negro River basin. The Uaru is a popular food fish among natives, making it less often imported. Temperament: Generally a mild temperament Cichlid, the Uaru is also one to stand up to more aggressive Cichlids such as Jack Dempseys, Green Terrors, etc., yet I have also kept Uaru Cichlids with Severums, Discus, even Rams (in larger tanks of 100 gallons or more with many plants/rocks) as generally the Uaru cichlid is not aggressive except when breeding. Water Parameters: Although a typical Amazon Basin fish in habitat water parameters, what is best in the closed confines of an aquarium may differ somewhat, especially domestic raised Uaru. The Uaru is less difficult to keep than a Ram cichlid, but more demanding of good water quality than a Severum. As with Rams, Angels, Discus, etc. a pH of 6.5-to as high as 7.5 as well as a KH of 50-100 will maintain a healthy Uaru aquarium. Temperatures between 78-84 F (26- 29 C) usually are best for Uaru Cichlids. As with other South American Cichlids, Uarus need some mineralization (calcium, magnesium, etc.) for correct osmoregulation. Products such as Bio Lif that utilize Indian Almond leaves can balance out the added minerals (GH) and aid in Aeromonas bacterial control, more natural Amazon conditions, etc. Feeding: The Uaru Cichlid is an omnivore, however they MUST have “veggies” in their diet to do well, and do best in a planted aquarium for this reason for which they readily dine on Anacharis (Elodea), however they will not generally eat Java Fern or Moss as well as hornwort. Feeding foods such as Spirulina Flakes or pellets are a MUST. To this diet Black or Bloodworms (gut loaded are best), which can be fed live, frozen, or FD (in order of quality of nutrition). Brine shrimp and mosquito larvae are also excellent supplements to their diet as is FD Plankton. If you are successful at breeding Uaru Cichlids, the newly hatched fry generally feed off their parents slime coat for the first few days, after that Microworms Spirulina Flakes powered between your fingers make a good first diet. Contributor Notes: 
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