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 Comets, Common, Ryukin, Orandas, Shubunkins

GOLDFISH;
Comets, Common, Ryukin, Orandas, Shubunkins

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COMETS (Fantail) & COMMON GOLDFISH;

Common, and Comet, fantail goldfish*Size: 12 inches although pond specimens may grow longer
*Scientific Name: Cyprinus auratus
*Natural Habitat: Goldfish are the earliest fish to be domesticated by humans. All modern goldfish are descended from Carassius auratus gibelio carp that lived in East Asia in the 3rd century (they caught the eye of the Chinese as early as 265 AD). The common Goldfish has been kept in captivity longer than any other fish
*Water Parameters: Ph 7.2 to 7.8, KH 150, GH 200, goldfish can survive temperatures in the 40's to up to 80. I temperature of 66 F to 72 F is ideal.
Good mineralization/electrolytes are important as noted previously for healthy goldfish, for this reason it is important to maintain a GH above 200 (150 absolute minimum) so as to maintain Calcium, Magnesium and other essential minerals for osmoregulation of your goldfish.
Please see this article for further information: "Calcium, GH, KH, pH in Aquariums & Ponds"
*Recommended Tank Size: 10 gallon +, about 10 gallons is needed per goldfish in an aquarium for optimal growth and health
*Feeding: Goldfish are primarily herbivores despite how many aquarist keep them. Comets and Common goldfish will take foods such as Brine Shrimp (which are excellent for constipation (as are shelled peas), however more “meaty” types of foods should be used sparingly and very high protein foods such as worms should be avoided altogether.
Generally a Quality Pellet food makes a good food for goldfish which have a slow digestive system and expand inside them. A highly digestible Spirulina Algae Flake makes an excellent part of any goldfish diet due to the high digestibility factor immune system boost such foods provide.
Also soak your fish food in water for at least 5 minutes so that it does not float, which will prevent your goldfish from ingesting air (which can cause digestive problems). Be careful with feeding too much flake food (even the spirulina flake, although this flake does not cause the intestinal gas problems that many flakes such as TetraFin do), and again soak any flake food too.

Additional Information:
"Goldfish Care and Basics"

Contributor Notes: By Renee Wise;
A very hardy fish if taken care of well and given good care of, even feeder goldfish that are designed to only feed other fish can live years and be totally healthy if properly cared for contrary to some opinions. Goldfish are also quite friendly and will often greet their owner when they enter the room in a unique swimming fashion. Another thing goldfish like to do is forage for food in gravel a lot. When goldfish search the gravel for food they can (though rarely) get gravel lodged in their throats and die. To prevent this, gravel about 1/2 a centimeter in diameter. Goldfish also change color slowly over their lives so when you pick out a fish, don't expect it to retain its original colors forever. Goldfish should have aquarium salt kept in their tanks at about 1 tablespoon her 5 gallons to help with electrolytes they need and to aid in stress and disease prevention.







ORANDAS/LIONHEADS;

Oranda, Lionhead, Calico, Red Cap*Size: 10 inches (26 cm.) in aquariums.
*Scientific Name: Cyprinus auratus
Description: Orandas and Lionheads are easily spotted by the large growth on their heads (at least the better specimens). With Lionheads not only do they have this growth (which is often even more pronounced than with Orandas), but they also are missing their dorsal fin (which often makes it difficult to compete with other goldfish, especially fast moving Comets and Shubunkins)
*Natural Habitat: As with Comets; goldfish are the earliest fish to be domesticated by humans. Orandas and Lionhead are even more in bred and are vastly different externally and even internally from their wild brethren.
*Water Parameters: Again basically the same as Comets, however most fancy varieties are often more sensitive to poor water quality than a comet or common goldfish.
A Ph 7.2 to 7.8, KH 150, GH 200, goldfish can survive temperatures in the 40's to up to 80. I temperature of 66 F to 72 F is ideal.
Good mineralization/electrolytes are important as noted previously for healthy goldfish, for this reason it is important to maintain a GH above 200 (150 absolute minimum) so as to maintain Calcium, Magnesium and other essential minerals for osmoregulation of your goldfish.
*Recommended Tank Size: Although a 10 gallon will work initially, Orandas and Lionheads will do best in a 20 gallon plus to grow out in.
*Feeding: As with ALL Goldfish, Orandas and Lionheads are primarily herbivores. Orandas/Lionheads often are VERY sensitive to poor diets due to in breeding that has left their internal organs (especially the digestive tract) in poor condition to digest food.
Generally a Quality Pellet food makes a good food for goldfish which have a slow digestive system and expand inside them. A highly digestible Spirulina Algae Flake makes an excellent part of any goldfish diet due to the high digestibility factor immune system boost such foods provide.
DL-methionine is an essential amino acid for producing the “Lionhead” feature in goldfish. High levels of methionine can be found in the vegetable proteins of spinach, green peas, garlic, and Vegetable protein extract which is used in many commercial foods such as Sanyu Koi and Goldfish Food. DL-methionine can also be found in fish meal.
Orandas/Lionheads are very prone to swim bladder infections and therefore soaking your fish food in water for at least 5 minutes so that it does not float, which will prevent your goldfish from ingesting air is even MUCH more important then with Comets. Be careful with feeding too much flake food (even the spirulina flake, although this flake does not cause the intestinal gas problems that many flakes such as TetraFin do), and again soak any flake food too.

Contributor Notes:






RYUKINS;







SHUBUNKINS;





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