  
 EAST AFRICAN CICHLIDS (Lake Malawi & Tanganyika; |
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EAST AFRICAN CICHLIDS (Lake Malawi & Tanganyika; |
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CYPHOTILAPIA FRONTOSA  *Size: *Description: 7 bar Frontosa *Scientific Name: cyphotilapia frontosa *Natural Habitat: Lake Tanganyika *Water Parameters: Frontosas like a high ph-up to 9.2 but will adapt to ranges in the 7`s. 12-14 dKH , 10-20.0 dh , temps from 76-82 *Temperament; They are very docile fish normally. As any cichlid though, they can show their evil side, but it doesn’t very often. They will work well with near any docile species that isn’t slow enough and small enough to fit in its mouth. *Feeding; They do well with high quality flake and pellets, as well as frozen freeze dried or live food. *Contributor Notes: (From Bikeguy; AKA Bill) The frontosas come from deep water (around 50 meters) in Lake Tanganyika. Actually the water is so deep that when they are wild caught they have to depressurize a lot like a human does, otherwise it swells the swim bladder to the point where intestines are expelled from the body. They are one of the largest cichlids from the rift lakes. Males will grow to 15” where females max at 10”.they are mouth brooders with normally small clutches of fry. Frontosa are sedentary, and will often live to over 25 years old. Since they get so large, a bare minimum…and I mean bare min is 75 gallons….  VENUSTUS  *Size: 8-10 inches (22 cm.) *Description: The male Venustus is the colorful which typically has a yellow and black spotted coloration as well as blue on the head and fins (The blue is absent on the females as seen in the picture displaying a male and female) *Scientific Name: Nimbochromis venustus *Natural Habitat: The deeper more open areas where rock meets sand of Lake Malawi in East Africa *Water Parameters: A non demanding Cichlid that prefers water conditions typical of most Lake Malawi cichlids. This includes a STABLE pH of 7.5- 8.2, a KH above 200 ppm (12 dKH), and very importantly (and often an important aspect of fish health) a GH of 200 ppm (12 dGH) or higher. A temperature between 76 -82 F (25-28 C) is best. *Temperament; A generally aggressive Rift Lake Cichlid that I have seen aggression vary among individual specimens. Other factors may also affect variability in temperament including stocking levels, aquarium size, tank mates of similar size/appearance, and order of introduction of fish specimens. *Feeding; A more carnivorous African Cichlid, in the its natural habitat the Venustus will often wait motionless while hiding slightly in the sandy lake bottom after spotting groups of small fishes. It stays in this position for a long time, waiting for prey to come within reach. In the aquarium, meaty foods such as Brine Shrimp, Bloodworms, even “clean gut loaded” feeder guppies can be offered. A more carnivorous Flake Food as well as FD Shrimp and Plankton are excellent additions to their diet. *Contributor Notes: By Jon V. I got my group of Venustus in July of 07, three of them. At the time I'd gotten them all fish were displaying spots on the body. They preferred to stick to their own group, and were around 2 inches each in size. This leads me to believe that this is one species that doesn't distinctly show faster growth in males vs. females. Will comment further later on that. Initially, the three were put in my 75 gallon tank, and kept there about 8 months. Clearly at the size I've got them, these fish were at least 6 months of age judging how fast my fry are growing currently. No signs of aggression were typically displayed, even in the 75 during all this time, however, the 75 was located at a different location then I was at, and thus, were not under my direct observations, but rather reported to me. All, including the female, were rather happy to eat live fish, but the staple diet these fish, along with all the 75 gallon occupants were on a flake food diet. I moved the Venustus to the 180 gallon tank in March of 08. Still at this time the color pattern of the males and females weren't immediately apparent, however, the size difference was easy to spot, as the 2 males were significantly larger then the smaller female. At times, the males did seem to display a very deeper yellow, to the point where it would block out the view of its spots, and the female wouldn't show at all. Plus the deeper blue of the head became more apparent. What should be noted is this is compared by keeping a group. If keeping a solo, or trying to keep a male female pair, clearly some things are going to be different. Males will tend to display their dress color when around a female. Expect to see a heightened Yellow in the body and a deeper blue on the face. Clearly, an expansion in the body yellow or blue in the face should indicate a male almost right away. Generally though, males will not put on such a show unless attempting to attract a female. Having now a fry group and a couple successful spawns with my group, I isolated the smaller of the two males to the 75 again, to prevent the dominant male from injuring or killing the other. It appears even in a 180, the male will NOT tolerate another male in that same tank. The fry also appear to grow rather slowly. After one month, all fry appear to have roughly the same sizes, though there are a few that are smaller. The fry tend to stick in its own group, and females will spawn a VERY LARGE group too if you breed these fish. I estimated she had around 45-60 in her first brood. Due to the sheer size of adults, this isn't unusual. It should be noted to the fish keeper, if you are going to breed these, you will get a large group, so be prepared to keep large and many tanks if you don't move these out. I feel that when looking at the development of the younger ones, size isn't going to be something to key on to find potential males and Females, HOWEVER I do see a few that appear to be smaller, and the coloration and spots are not nearly as distinct in some of the others. I feel looking at how developed the spots and colors are, is the way to sex this species early on. Another issue as I stated before, I think she had about 45-60 in her brood. (You try to count that many fry, they don't sit still) I can pretty much only account for about 30 now. (30 is much easier to count) I have a strong feeling the Jardini may very well have eaten a few and why I can't count as many. Or there just may have been a few weaker ones in the group that didn't make it. CYROTOCARA MOORII, BLUE DOLPHIN CICHLID  *Size: Maximum of 8 inches (20 cm.) *Description: Often known in the hobby as the Malawi Blue Dolphin. The nickname Blue Dolphin originates from the shape of its head; which includes a back head hump and bill like mouth that resembles that one of a dolphin. *Scientific Name: Cyrtocara moorii Formally Haplochromis moorii *Natural Habitat: Widely distributed in Lake Malawi (although not common). The C. moorii were first imported in 1968. Classified as a micro-predator; in the wild, C. moorii has a unique feeding adaptation, it follows close behind substrate-digging cichlids such as Taeniolethrinops praeorbitalis, Fossorochromis rostratus, and Mylochromis lateristriga looking for clouds of sand and detritus then feeding on the small edible organisms and particles that get stirred up behind them as they feed. *Water Parameters: *Temperament; *Feeding; Primarily a carnivore, although either gut loaded meaty foods (such as worms fed with a vegetable or Spirulina Flake and/or Frozen Brine Shrimp or similar that is "enhanced" with Spirulina such as Ocean Nutrition's version are recommended. In the wild Moorii follow fish that dig in the substrate often stirring up foods such as crustaceans that the Moorii then feed upon. Contributor Notes; TAIWAN REEF CICHLID  *Size: Generally up to 6 inches (15 cm.) *Scientific Name: Protomelas Steveni *Natural Habitat: A Haplochromis found in rocky habitats free of sediment in gnerally only three locations of Lake Malawi; Taiwan Reef and in Tanzania at Higga Reef and Mbamba Bay Island  Please click on the map above for better view of Taiwan Reef Habitat *Water Parameters: Typical Lake Malawi Cichlid water parameters; Temperature: 78 - 82°F (26- 28 cm.), a pH over 7.8 and definely a high mineral content which includes a GH over 200 ppm (or more) *Temperament; Mildly Aggressive *Feeding; The Taiwan Reef Cichlid primarily feeds on the algae cover on rocks, however it is an omnivore and will accept a varied diet. I strongly recommend Spirulina 20 Fish Food Flake, Hikari Algae Wafers, or similar high content spirulina and vegetable foods. Ocean Nutrition's Spirulina enhanced frozen Brine Shrimp is an excellent supplement to their diet as well. *Contributor Notes; KYOGA FLAMEBACK  *Size: 5 inches (13 cm.) *Scientific Name: Xystichromis *Natural Habitat: The Kyoga Flameback comes from Lake Nawampassa. *Water Parameters: Water-hard (GH over 200 ppm), PH tolerance is 7.2-8.6, *Temperament; Mildly Aggressive; minium tank size for a colony is 40 gallons *Feeding; Omnivore Contributor Notes; 
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