FLEXIBACTER- COLUMNARIS:The Proper treatment of this gram positive aerobic bacteriumAlso Identification and Treatment of FUNGUS (Saprolegnia) • Question and Answer (Treatment Basics) • More about Columnaris including prevention/water quality • Saprolegnia |
By Carl Strohmeyer Question and Answer Overview about Columnaris; For fungus/Saprolegnia Information, please scroll down 2/3 through the article. The fish in the lower right corner is displaying Saprolegnia while the rest are displaying Flexibacteria-Columnaris I will start this article off in a more unusual way (at least when compared to my other articles) in that I will start out with an edited question and response from someone inquiring of an infection that was not responding to treatment. Part of the reason for doing this is that Columnaris along with Saprolegnia (often referred to as Fungus) are two of the most misunderstood and often mistreated aquariums diseases, even Wikipedia has at best marginal information about these pathogens and their CORRECT treatment and prevention (prevention is the key with both of these unrelated but similar symptom pathogens) QUESTION: An aquarist has a cichlid with a white spot/wound about mid body maybe 3/16 inch below the dorsal, within a week the white increased to about a 3/8 strip from dorsal to belly. There was a thin white cottony growth (fungus?) but it appeared to be eating away the cichlids skin, and it appeared the outside skin was eaten away and was down to the 'meat'. Despite its blackish color this patch was definitely fleshier in color. The fish died within a few hours. A local fish store informed the aquarist that yes a problem had arisen in the tank it came from. He gave him 200 mg Erythromycin said apply as directed (5 tabs per 24 hours 4 four treatments, w/ one water change) and that should solve any future problems. That did not work. When he came home to apply the first round another cichlid had what appeared to be a small white spot between his upper lips and eye. About 5 days later - he pulled out the cichlid (after sterilizing the other tank) and not only has it spread towards the other eye but there is a white film growing above its eyes. ANSWER (Treatment Basics): Erythromycin should not have been used. The disease the aquarist seems to be dealing with is Flexibacter (Flavobacterium columnare), which is a gram negative rod bacteria (often labeled as fungus), while Erythromycin treats gram positive bacterial infections. I would have started with a blend of Nirofurazone and Kanamycin (Chloramphenicol is a better choice than Kanamycin if it can be found, but it is not easily found due to problems in humans that have restricted availability). If one or the other of these antibiotics are to be used I would choose Kanamycin however the combination of these two is the most effective in more advanced cases of Columnaris. What is Columnaris?  Columnaris which is a gram negative aerobic bacterium often appears like a fungus (or more correctly; Saprolegnia) however it is not a fungus, although many treatments for fungus are effective for mild cases of Columnaris (Flexibacteria), which is why Erythromycin is a strange choice of treatment as it is rarely effective for either Fungus of Columnaris. However do not confuse Columnaris with the spores of Saprolegnia the cotton wool ball with hair like growth structures seen on damaged fish, as without a microscope, Columnaris can look like Saprolegnia and is often treated as fungus with no result. The best way to tell with the naked eye is the hair like growth structures. Columnaris has similarities to Aeromonas in that both are opportunistic, however since Aeromonas is anaerobic it is more prevalent in a tank with high amounts of pollution, DOC and especially poor circulation. While Columnaris being aerobic can occur in tanks with healthy filtration, but is common in a tank with poor mineralization and stress (such as an aggressive fish tank where many inhabitants are constantly bullying others). Please read further for a better understanding of this bacterial disease as well as treatment and prevention (there is also a section about Fungus/ Saprolegnia as well) FURTHER TREATMENT INFORMATION:  Pimafix shows allot of promise as a natural treatment for mild cases of Flexibacteria (I would not recommend it for more serious cases). Pimafix is effective for a broad range of bacterial and fungal diseases that typically afflict fish and other aquatic animals (especially gram negative). Fish diseases that may be treated in accordance with this product include bacterial fish diseases, such as fin and tail rot, mouth fungus (often caused by the bacterium Flavobacterium columnaris); fungal fish diseases (such as those caused by microorganisms of the genera Saprolegnia and Achyle) and the like. Many fish diseases, it should be noted, are caused by different bacterial or fungal pathogens that often exhibit similar symptoms, so identification of a specific bacterial or fungal pathogen is not usually possible from mere visual inspection of the symptoms on the fish. Since the Pimenta extract (Pimafix) treatment of this product appears to have broad-spectrum effectiveness against many diseases affecting fish and other aquatic animals, precise identification of specific bacterial or fungal pathogens causing the disease is not usually necessary.Triple Sulfa may also yield positive results for treatment of Columnaris if used early (although this is not as effective of a treatment for Columnaris as it used to be). Finally, there is much unfortunately posted about the use of Tetracycline for the treatment of columnaris however this is based on old research and misunderstanding of the large Tetracycline class of medications. Tetracycline is primarily gram positive while Columnaris is a gram negative rod bacteria. This said Minocycline is member of this class of Tetracycline antibiotics and many persons assume all antibiotics in this class are the same, which is not true. Minocycline (sometimes spelled Mincycline) is more gram negative than its cousins and has shown effectiveness for Columnaris. Maracyn 2 is a product that contains Minocycline Additional Treatments; Additional salt is helpful too at a dose of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons. In fact despite a study at the Alabama Agricultural Experimental Station, Auburn University has shown salt increasing concentrations used with Channel catfish (along with heat reduction) can prevent Columnaris (Flexibacter) infections. This flys in the face of anecdotal advice about not using salt with catfish. A dip or bath in Mebromin, Potassium Permanganate or Methylene Blue (not to be confused with malachite green) has also helped speed cure for my fish. With Methylene Blue or Potassium Permanganate I prepare a double strength bath and place the fish in this solution for 30 minutes). I strongly recommend this dip as a FIRST coarse of action. I have other treatments I have used, especially to prevent reoccurrence once the fish are OK (such as “Medicated Wonder Shells”, which contain Acriflavin, which is active against flex bacteria in mild cases). I do NOT recommend Medicated Wonder Shells for a full blown infection of columnaris. Acriflavin and other ingredients in Wonder Shells are very effective for true fungus which make these a good choice for a true fungal infection (which are VERY rare in saltwater aquariums).  Here is a picture of a Golden Killifish that developed Columnaris while I was away on a business trip. This fish was near death when I arrived back. With twice daily baths of Methylene Blue that also had 100 mg of Kanaplex per .25 liters of dip water, as well as in tank treatment of Pimafix and then Kanamycin (Kanaplex), he is nearly recovered as seen in this picture. His tail was consumed by the infection very deep into the tissue, so his tail will probably never be the same. MORE ABOUT COLUMNARIS (Flexibacter):  Flavobacterium columnare gained the nick name “Columnaris” because wet mounts of Flexibacter prepared from diseased fish appear as column-like, "haystack" colonies.Columnaris (which is a gram negative aerobic bacterium) is prevalent in systems with poor mineralization, crowded conditions, aggressive inhabitants, poor handling and poor Redox Balance, and often high bio loads. So keeping a clean aquarium with proper water parameters paramount to recovery and prevention; *pH (depending upon fish kept) Stability is more important than the actual pH, *GH & KH: generally a GH of 100 or higher and a KH of 50 + (again what is best here depends upon fish kept). GH and KH are often low in crowded tanks with high bio loads even with good circulation, so maintaining these are important especially for aerobic bacteria such as Columnaris. *Ammonia, nitrites; should be 0 ppm *Nitrates (long term exposure of nitrates over 80 ppm can reduces resistance to disease, under 40 is better), *Lower your temperature; under 75 F (24 C) *Redox (not major concern for the average aquarist, but good to know when problems persist, especially aerobic bacterium such as Columnaris. For the previous stated water parameters, water changes are often very helpful (although watch cross contamination if you have more than one aquarium). Good filtration (two filters is always a good option), is very important for treatment and prevention. It is important to catch this disease early, as Flexibacter advances it attacks the internal organs making for more difficult treatment. Kanamycin is about the only antibiotic that will work at this time (unless you have access to Chloramphenicol). This said, circulation and dissolved oxygen do not play as big a role as with the diseases Aeromonas, Furunculosis, or Vibrio, since Columnaris is a aerobic bacterium that needs oxygen while these others are anaerobic meaning they do best in environments without oxygen. Please note that Anabantids (such as Gourami and bettas) seem to be especially susceptible to this disease, which is good reason to practice good cleaning practices with these fish even though they have the ability to get oxygen from the air. Wonder Shells are great to use in betta bowls as they add needed electrolytes and calcium and improve water quality between cleanings. For further reading about Columnaris, please read these outside resources: http://govdocs.aquake.org/cgi/reprint/2003/727/7270100.pdf http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/projects/projects.htm?ACCN_NO=409119&fy=2006 FUNGUS (Saprolegnia):  This is often confused with Columnaris and for good reasons, they can often be similar in appearance. Close inspection though will reveal that a fish with Saprolegnia (often classified as a mold, are from the Genus “Saprolegnia”) will have hair like growth structures similar to what you might find outside growing on a decaying piece of wood in the forest. This is what differentiates Saprolegnia (fungus) from Columnaris as you will not see the thin hair like structures upon fish with Columnaris.(Please click picture to enlarge)  Saprolegnia is not a true fungus (fungus are from the Kingdom “Fungi”), while Saprolegnia are from the Kingdom “Protoctista” which is a catch all Kingdom for the multicellular organisms which don't fit into the Animal, Plant, or Fungus Kingdom. This includes molds, green algae, red algae and more.These organisms, considered to be saprophytic "water molds," are a normal, ubiquitous component of aquatic ecosystems. Saprophytes live off of decaying organic material.  If you have ever seen a piece of fish food left in the aquarium and was covered in what looks like cotton, those are all fungus filaments doing their job of breaking down organics, and although they are a natural part of the aquatic environment, an overabundance of Saprolegnia (Fungus) caused by decaying matter (especially in new aquariums) can result with the Saprolegnia to start trying to break down your living fish and can also appear as cottony growths on the fish as well. Saprolegnia will often get started if there is a large amount of decomposition of nitrogenous organic material such as dead fish left in the aquarium or large amounts of high protein fish food such as krill/shrimp. Injured fish with open sores will amplify this potential problem. This is why I strongly disagree with cycling method popularized on the internet by a few websites, Wikipedia, and some forums such as Yahoo answers and that is to use raw shrimp to seed the nitrogen cycle as this can result (as per my own studies) in Saprolegnia getting to strong a hold in anew aquarium Treatment Luckily treatment is somewhat related, although Saprolegnia responds well to Acriflavin, Malachite Green based treatments such as Medicated Wonder Shells or Quick Cure . Pimafix and Triple Sulfa also works well for Saprolegnia (fish fungus). Salt, dips, and baths are also effective (in serious cases essential) as part of a Saprolegnia treatment. I would use plain salt (non iodized) or better; ”SeaChem Cichlid Salt” which is a balanced salt with other essential elements necessary for most freshwater fish (not just cichlids as the name implies). A Methylene Blue or Potassium Permanganate bath used at double tank strength for 30 minutes twice per day with the bath water disposed of afterwards is also very useful for Saprolegnia (Fungus) treatment (generally Potassium Permanganate is more effective for Saprolegnia). However treatments such as Kanacyn are less effective here, however I disagree with some statements I have read about the use of antibiotics for Saprolegnia stating that these should not be used over concern for the nitrifying bacteria; these statements are based on gram positive bacteria such as Erythromycin which can and will harm your nitrifying bacteria, however the antibiotics which are effective for Saprolegnia and Columnaris are gram negative and would take over use to destroy you bio filter bed. Saprolegnia (fungus) can be even more opportunistic in poor water with stressed or injured fish than many bacterial infections such as Columnaris, so healthy water conditions are even more important for cure (& prevention) and if water conditions are poor, all the medications in world may not affect a cure. The obvious 0 ammonia/nitrites are important but so is the often forgotten GH and a stable pH (provided by a proper KH). Without adequate calcium (found in GH) your cure will be difficult to achieve. Medicated or regular Wonder Shells may help in this area. Also important is a clean tank without organic mulm buildup, so make sure there is NO decomposing organic debris which can by itself bring on a Saprolegnia infection, in fact I have documented this which is why I STRONGLY recommend against a poorly researched Wikipedia article that recommends using raw shrimp to start your nitrogen cycle. Please see this well researched article for more about the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle: “The Aquarium (& pond) Nitrogen Cycle”. This article about aquarium cleaning may also be useful: “Aquarium Cleaning” Prevention of Saprolegnia is probably the best “cure”, make sure to vacuum out ALL decaying organic matter, especially high protein organics such as uneaten shrimp or similar. Also treat all wounds in fish immediately when discovered and finally maintain proper electrolytes (such as calcium) in your aquarium as well as the possible addition of salt when wounds are discovered for healthy osmoregulation. Along the line of correct levels of electrolytes such as calcium (which is all to often missed by many anecdotal aquarium articles) is that correct mineralization induces a health mucous layer on the fish epidermis which is so VERY important in fish resistance to Saprolegnia infections, in fact this quote from Oregon Sate University says it best: “Willoughby (1989) determined that fish have 3 types of defenses against Saprolegnia. First, the physical removal of attached spores by the renewal of mucous. Second, a morphogen in the mucous inhibited the growth of mycelium but not killing it. And third, a cellular response in the mucous is directed at growing mycelium. Therefore, the mucous acts as a primary physical barrier (Bruno and Wood, 1999; Pickering, 1994), by continuous replenishment of the mucous layer (Pickering and Willoughby, 1982), although not for complete, i.e., 100%, removal of fungal spores (Murphy, 1981; Willoughby and Pickering, 1977). However, a fish having an intact epidermis is probably the best defense against saprolegniasis (Hatai and Hoshiai, 1994; Pickering, 1994).” Please follow this link for more from the article from which this quote came: “Saprolegnia; There’s a Fungus among us” . This why I cannot emphasize more the need for correct mineralization (products such as Wonder Shells are excellent for this), the use of salt when needed and over all good water quality that includes a healthy Redox Balance. For further reading about Saprolegnia, please read these outside resources: “What is Saprolegnia? By Kent Mayer OSU Department of Fisheries and Wildlife” , “Fungal Diseases of Fish” FOR MORE AQUARIUM MEDICATION AND TREATMENT INFORMATION For more aquarium information and articles (pond too), please visit this site:   
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