For SeaChem Products, please follow this link: SeaChem Aquarium Products
Including the premier Ich treatment; ParaGuard, as well the best available water conditioner; Prime.
TMC V² O³ Zone Ozone Generator
Top of the line Ozone Generator which raises oxidizing levels, making your Protein Skimmer more efficient which helps to break down harmful waste products produced by fish, removing yellowing compounds and creating crystal clear water
TMC Fluidized Sand Bed Filters
The TMC Premium Fluidized Sand Bed Filter increases Bio Capacity of any Aquarium system, with unsurpassed Nitrifying Bio-Filtration. An excellent compliment to any Canister Filter
For the best in Replacement UV-C Bulbs for your aquarium UV Sterilizer: UV Bulbs For Sale
RIO PLUS PUMPS
Models 90, 200, 600, 1000, 1100, & 1700; Proven and Versatile Rio Aquarium, Fountain Water Pumps, Powerheads
By Carl Strohmeyer
Updated 1/24/12
Overview:
This article is for basic to advanced information and resources intended for a marine fish aquarium (Basic, FOWLR, Nano Reefs, & some advanced information).
The intention of this article is to provide up to date starter information for the beginner as well as some more advanced information. Please follow the many links/resources in this article to much more researched, in depth and advanced information.
This article is based on my experience of keeping and professionally maintaining marine fish (and reef) aquariums for over 30 years with one of the largest aquarium maintenance companies in Los Angeles, California. Most of my marine and freshwater customers had been with other services and had regular losses of their fish until we were referred to them. I will update and expand this article on a regular basis, especially the more in depth articles linked from this more basic article (such as Aquarium Lighting; Facts & Information).
Please note that due to new information and methods being developed/explored, that there is no one best way to set up a marine/reef aquarium, so I would be cautious of anyone who states as such (in my experience these persons are generally closed minded to new research such as Redox, which generally makes their opinions less than helpful in keeping a healthy marine aquarium).
In fact I have a marine aquarium set-up combinations page, for which ALL methods work quite well and I update this regularly page/article too. However I will admit that this is page is not an exhaustive article as to different methods to set up a healthy marine fish or reef aquarium as there are other proven methods as well. My point is to be cautious of anyone that states theirs is the only way to set up a marine aquarium or trashes one of the methods I outline (as I have used these methods and tested them) as these persons generally are not open minded enough or spend any real research (often which requires research outside the aquarium keeping hobby) to understand why certain methods work and others do not.
This is also not to say that some methods should not be used such as this example method; A canister filter set up for aerobic bio filtration Only (run without any de-nitrification), without any deep oolite sand, seasoned live rock and lighting provide by basic T8 lights and then expect to keep corals alive, as you likely will fail.
That said, I have also seen many articles or popular YouTube Videos that show elaborate systems that I will not question their viability of these systems, however a viewer/reader of these videos/articles might assume that these elaborate systems are the only way to go, which is simply not true. I certainly recommend the best system you can afford, however this does not mean multiple Metal Halide Lights & a chiller when a modern LED, T5 or T2 system may work for less money (& complication) or an elaborate wet/dry system which may likely be an out of date nitrate factory when not properly installed; or an advanced pump dosing system when often good maintenance practices along with a simple DIY drip dosing system may work equally well (or better)
Please see this article for my suggestions as to marine fish (& reef) tank set up combinations (again all these methods work, but are not the "end all" of methods either):
Saltwater Set Up/Systems Suggestions
For beginners, a small aquarium such as a Nano Reef can be difficult, as many problems can accelerate in an aquarium this small. For this reason I recommend a first marine aquarium to be at least 40 gallons (although I know of many aquarists who have started with smaller aquariums and have been successful!)
[1] FILTRATION, Including Substrate and Live Rock;
Good filtration is a must for a successful marine aquarium. There are many different filters available too. I recommend a filtration turnover rate of 4 times tank volume per hour (combined all filters) minimum, however your in tank circulation (counting power heads, air stones, etc.) should be OVER 8 times per hour.
Filtration is also performed by Live Rock, so please read more in the section about the Berlin Method (Live Rock) further down in this article. *Canister filters are excellent for their capacity, but can these filters can become Nitrate factories if not rinsed very regularly (once per week unless de-nitrifcation or nitrate absorbing media is used such as Matrix or Purigen).
A few Canister Filters I recommend are the SunSun, Eheim, Filstar and the Magnum (for certain applications).
To improve on the “nitrate factory” aspect of these filters do NOT use bio balls or ceramic filter media, rather I prefer to add products such as SeaChem Matrix and/or volumes of cure live rock crumbles/rubble or volcanic rock to my canister filters. For higher flow rates I recommend larger crumbles (to provide less penetration of oxygen into the live rock so as to insure anaerobic bacterial growth). 2-5 centimeters is what I have generally used in live rock rubble size (smaller sizes are best for slower flow rates such as 150 gph, while larger sizes are best for higher flow rates such as 500+ gph).
Please read the canister filter section of this article: Aquarium Filtration; Canister Filters for further information.
*Wet/Dry filters are good, but as most are designed, these are usually are poor mechanical filters. If Bio Balls are used, the bio ball media in them also should be rinsed regularly in de-chlorinated water to prevent a buildup of organic material, increasing nitrates (as with canister filters I prefer to use broken cured live rock, volcanic rock pieces, or SeaChem Matrix instead of bio balls).
Another idea instead of the use of bio balls, etc. is the use of Hydro Pond Sponge Filters along with a deep sand bed to aid in de-nitrification (removal of nitrates), along with such a wet/dry sump filter, live rock crumbles or volcanic rock can also be "piled" around the pick up sponge.
*Sponge; The benefit with the use of a Sponge filter (such as in a sump, in place of bio balls or simply as a stand alone filter) is the ease of rinsing, which if rinsed regularly, will nullify any possibility of becoming a nitrate factory and will increase your aquariums ability to bounce back quickly from spikes in wastes (resulting in very undesirable spikes in ammonia).
In fact controlled tests using sponge filters that were rinsed regularly, saw increases at most of .05 in nitrates and when these sponge filters were taken out of the aquarium system, much more dangerous spikes in ammonia occurred, proving that with the correct aerobic filter combined with the correct care the "nitrate factory" phenomenon can be avoided and better nitrification can be achieved with no instances of ammonia spikes as would be present in tanks with only live rock and protein skimmers.
It is also noteworthy that there was no increase whatsever in nitrates in these tests when a deep sand bed or de-nitrifying filter media was also present
*Sump systems with live rock, plants, and sponge filters work well. The live rock is excellent for aerobic filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal) and anaerobic filtration (nitrate removal). The live plants and green algae are good for nitrogen fixing and phosphate removal. The sponge filter is a simple to clean aerobic bio-filter and mechanical filter (although make sure and rinse the sponge regularly or it can become a nitrate factory).
Common Wet/Dry systems are what are considered open loop systems which employs a sump (as compared to a closed loop that has no open sump).
*Protein Skimmers employ a chamber with a column of fine bubbles. Surface tension attracts organic waste to the bubbles & carries it through the column (this is called foam fractionation); then it is "skimmed" into a collection cup.
Let me add one point about protein skimmers that often riles up the reef keeping police (that still lurk on a few Google Groups) and that is that although protein skimmers are a useful tool in marine and reef aquariums (a tool I recommend too), they are not essential for all marine aquariums, especially fish only. Many older Skimmers abilities are often over rated, as I have kept dozens of marine aquariums with and without them and excellent results in the marine/reef aquariums without them (providing other methods of filtration are employed such as deep sand bed).
However, that said they are still a useful tool and will state that keeping an advanced reef tank is much easier when a well designed Protein Skimmer is employed, especially with the newer generation skimmers now available that are more efficient with less hassles.
Often problems I have seen with aquarists using Protein skimmers is that they are not set up and running properly so the cup is collecting foam. Also many aquarists will not empty the cup frequently enough which then makes the skimmer useless. If you choose to have advanced level marine aquarium, please look carefully at the Skimmer you purchase and make all the adjustment necessary once set up for proper foam refraction. The Professional V2 Skimmer is a quality protein skimmer incorporating a patented venture injection system which optimizes the perfect mixture of fine air bubbles and water and ensures intensive, efficient skimming and the removal of proteins and other harmful toxins (waste) from the aquarium. The addition of an Ozone Generator to a venturi style skimmer (such as the V2 Skim noted above) further increases efficiency and add the benefit of killing many pathogens.
There are other good Skimmers also available (such as the ultra high end Warner Marine mesh wheel and the Via Aqua Needle Wheel) as well as many “dogs” that are often still quite expensive.
Finally as to Skimmers, since they work via foam refraction on organic proteins in the water, they will not collect much foam in a new marine aquarium, so do not get discouraged if yours does not work well in the first few weeks after initial setup.
A unique filter for aquariums 60 gallons or less is the Via Aqua Multi Filter , this filter is a combination HOB, Protein Skimmer and UV Sterilizer. And an even more simple skimmer with a pre-filter (no UV) for 20 gallon or less is the Rio Nano Skimmer both these filters can be used in the Berlin Method, either directly with a small amount of broken live rock inside the filter or indirectly as one part of the system.
Neither of these skimmers are high end skimmers, however they are good for beginners or small aquariums (under 60 gal.).
For MUCH more information about Protein Skimmers (including types), please see this updated article in Aquarium Answers: "Aquarium Protein Skimmers" Back To Top *Hang on back filters (HOB) are very limited for saltwater aquariums, but can be used too, especially if combined with other bio filters. Internal filters are also limited, but once again are good combined with others or used as above.
Be careful with some of the claims by many in the aquarium hobby about bio wheels, although they do work; no where near to what the hype say and are only marginal marine filters, please see this article: Do Bio Wheels really work .
If you have a small marine aquarium (under 20 gallons) the
Via Aqua M200 is popular among aquarium service pros & would be a good choice due its surface skimmer feature and bio grid.
With many HOB filters, including the VitaLife, I remove the grid and add live rock crumbles, volcanic rock or similar for better de-nitrification (Nitrate removal).
The newer Internal Wet-Dry Filters such as the ReSun BF100 are often a better choice than a HOB if you are considering one for their simplicity. This style of filter combines the simplicity of an HOB with more bio-capacity and room for live rock crumbles, Matrix, etc. They are also more versatile, allowing for the addition of a UV Sterilizer (which although is not essential, is a practical tool for disease prevention and Redox Balance). The biggest disadvantage to this type of filter is the same as the before mentioned HOB and Standard Wet/Dry filter; and that is they can become “nitrate factories” if not set up with de-nitrifying live rock crumbles, volcanic rock, etc.
*Ecosystem mud filtration is effective for nitrate removal (due to the large colonies of anaerobic bacteria), they can be simpler to use than a protein Skimmer in my opinion (although Ecosystems do work, I believe they are over hyped for fish aquaria).
Unfortunately there are many stores pushing these systems as the end all of filtration, and they are not. They are a good part of a system, but should not be the only part. Good mechanical, other types of bio filtration and especially germicidal filtration are also important.
*Power Heads along with wave makers (for more high tech reef tanks) are an excellent addition (& IMO a necessary addition when live rock is used as a major source of bio filtration) as these can add valuable cross currents and can be directed in ways that make for tidal zone like circulation. Many such as Via Aqua 1300 have small sponges too and this is a size that fits many saltwater tanks well.
For larger aquariums and especially sumps, the Via Aqua 2600 or Via Aqua 3300 are also useful especially for sumps, or inline applications such as the one pictured here at this site: “Water Return Manifold” (sometimes referred to as closed loop system, although this is not my definition, a better definition is just that a water return manifold).
*Wave makers can be a good idea if you have sensitive corals that live in tidal zones. I have not had good luck with oscillating power heads, I recommend electronic wave monitors that you plug your power heads into. If you use one of these devices make sure and use a quality power head that will restart as many of the power heads available (Aqua Clear, Marineland) have a poor track record from my experience. The Seio Propeller pumps are excellent for this application.
If you do not have these sensitive coral, simply having a few well placed power heads at different angles will do the trick.
Here is a link for these controllers (not our site) : WaveMaster Pro
*Propeller Pumps are gaining popularity, originally in high tech reef tanks (as the original propeller pumps usually cost over $300)
These unique pumps deliver high flow, low heat, and efficient. Propeller pumps install easily onto any aquarium with a glass or acrylic thickness that is 1/2" and below. Some propeller pumps use magnetic force to transmit energy through the aquarium wall, while others have a similar self contained design to the mag-drive pumps, which results in a better over all flow inside the aquarium compared to the more laminar flow of power heads. Thankfully these energy efficient pumps have come down much in price, first with the Hydro Koralia, then with the slightly better designed and better price/value Seio Propeller Pumps (see the picture to the left).
Please see my full Aquarium Filtration article for MUCH more information about filters:
"Aquarium Filtration."
MORE ABOUT LIVE ROCK AND THE BERLIN FILTER METHOD:
The Berlin Filter method as I apply it is the use of cured live rock in the tank and in sumps or HOB filters. This method is extremely effective for fish and reef (including Nano Reef), especially when combined with one or more other filters such as a mud filter, protein skimmer, or even a fluidized filter. The advantage here is the colonies of aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, as well as the many creatures and coralline algae that are housed in the live rock. I generally recommend 1-2 pounds of live rock per gallon.
The Berlin filter Method is also used in closed loop systems similar to wet/dry filter systems, except without the sump.
SAND; Substrate
Another similar aspect to “Live Rock” is “Live Sand”, although I have to part ways with the fad as to the live part (not the sand part), most of the packaged live sand I have tested is not all that "live", especially as to aerobic nitrifying bacteria as this bacteria cannot live long in a sealed bag, this part is a gimmick IMO.
I suggest that you use sand out of a healthy, functioning saltwater aquarium for true live sand, although starting with dry oolitic sand, your aquarium will develop anaerobic de-nitrification in about 4-8 weeks.
Back to sand, I highly recommend a deep sand bed of AT LEAST 4 inches of #00 oolite sized coral sand, with 5-6 inches prefered (NOT Playground sand which is NOT at all the same in chemical composition!). This sand bed will act as a “home” for de-nitrifying anaerobic bacteria to live in an oxygen free environment and aid in keeping your nitrate levels low. For more about anaerobic bacteria, please see this article: “Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle”
On top of the fine sand I recommend a layer of #3 crushed coral for improved nitrification and better waste control, not to mention easier vacuuming.
This top layer will generally trap large debris and detritus and will also allow some aerobic nitrifying bacteria to grow as well, however the main purpose is for trapping debris for vastly easier vacuuming, not to mention a more aesthetically pleasing aquarium than with sand alone. I generally only vacuum the top crushed coral layer, only occasionally pushing the vacuum bell deeper into the sand so as to not disrupt too much of the anaerobic bacteria in the sand (I often vacuum deeply in the front areas of the tank so as to remove unsightly algae (“mold”) that will grow here.
I should note that occasionally pushing the vacuum in to different areas of the sand bed (rotating areas with each cleaning) will control potential buildup of mulm or other undesirable organic decomposition as well as to prevent sulfur-reduction.
More about live rock: Make sure it is cured, many stores sell live rock right after it comes to them, and this is not cured live rock. Live rock arrives to the stores wrapped in newspaper and mostly dead by this time, it takes up to 6 weeks to fully cure live rock. Fully cured live rock has the benefit of containing aerobic and anaerobic bacteria; the later helps convert nitrates to nitrogen which is released harmlessly into the atmosphere. Cured live rock also contains many “creatures”, many of which are both interesting and beneficial.
You may also create your own using rock high in calcium carbonate (coralline rock), or even dead coral skeletons by placing them under healthy cured live rock for a couple of months in a healthy aquarium (reef set ups are best for this). It is important to use very porous rock for the proper benefits of live rock.
The use of ancient calcium carbonate rocks (from a rock quarry) is a great way to preserve the reefs as well since you are not depleting reefs for your aquarium!.
Another similar idea is to purchase Aqua Cultured Live Rock where they perform this task for you, one such place is Live Rock Ranch
An important point as to live rock, is to soak and “swish” your rock around in a bucket of de-chlorinated freshwater for 5 minutes. This has worked well for me and kills Oodinium pathogens and many (not all) creatures such polychaete worms (AKA Bristleworms) will fall out for your removal. Creatures you want to keep that fall out during this process can be simply placed back into the main aquarium. This has worked well for me over the years at minimizing disease risk and introduction of undesirables.
A method I prefer is to break the live rock into smaller chunks and place these in back mounted wet/dry filters, canister filters or even remove the filter media from an Aqua Clear 500 or similar HOB Filter and instead use these 1-2” live rock pieces, this can make for a simple application of the Berlin Filter Method.
Volcanic rock can also work well in the above mentioned filters due to its porous nature (although volcanic rock does not aid in adding minerals or buffering the water). Back To Top More on Nitrate Removal Filtration;
(A) As mentioned above, Mud filters can be very useful for Nitrate removal as are deep sand beds or even a DIY deep sand bed “filter” in which you can use a bucket or another small aquarium; For a picture and better description of this idea, please follow this link: DIY Deep Sand Bucket/Tank
(B) Also as mentioned above; a lot of cured live rock is extremely helpful for nitrate removal, this should also be used as live rock crumbles in wet/dry, canister or similar filters in place of bio balls or ceramic media which tend to promote high nitrates. Volcanic Rock can be substituted for live rock crumbles/scrap.
A commercial product that is even more efficient at utilizing de-nitrifying anaerobic bacteria for nitrate removal SeaChem Matrix. Matrix has macropores that are ideally sized for the support of nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria. This allows Matrix to remove nitrate along with ammonia and nitrite, simultaneously and in the same filter.
(C) Plants or green algae such as Caulerpa algae (although Caulerpa Algae is now regulated in many areas) or
Green Gracillaria directly in the aquarium or in a DIY Refugium/Mud Filter or Algae Scrubber.
(D) Protein Skimmers; these devices remove protein based organics before entering the nitrogen cycle, thus never allowing nitrates to form.
(E)Use of Synthetic Adsorption such as products like SeaChem Purigen. Purigen controls ammonia, nitrites and often hard to control nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds, with minimal impact on trace elements. Carbon can also be used as it too is an adsorbent, although there are some issues when used in combination with Protein Skimmers as well as release of contaminants, so please refer to this article for more: “Aquarium Answers; Carbon”
(F) Pre-Filters such as ATIs "Filter Max" on filter intakes; these are easily rinsed and remove organic matter before it can go thru the nitrogen cycle.
(G) Improved cleaning methods such as where by as much decomposing organics are removed. The use of battery powered sludge removing vacuums such as the Eheim Sludge Remover Gravel Vacuum is very useful, especially in tanks without deep sand beds.
For MUCH more about high nitrates, PLEASE see this article: "The Aquarium Nitrogen cycle", especially the section about nitrate removal.
OR this article specifically about Nitrates from Aquarium Answers: “Aquarium Nitrates”
A 6,400K to 14,000 K Daylight bulb is a start for most basic marine aquarium applications. The 6400K light will provide the important PAR best for marine fish, however in tanks over 18 inches deep, a higher Kelvin light may be needed. Actinic Blue can help balance out the 400-550nm range of the PAR necessary for corals and provides a nice “blue” appearance to your aquarium.
For more advanced reef keeping you will need to consider the power compacts, the T-5, HO T5, the Metal Halide, the even newer LED, SHO bulbs, or T2 lights. LED light fixtures in particular are making major advances on a yearly basis (if not even quicker) in both performance and price (when compared apples to apples such as in terms of focused lumens, lumens per watt, PAR, much less wasted light energy in the yellow/green spectrum & more).
So before you write these off as too expensive (which is NOT true when you consider the 50,000 hour life span and vastly less electricity used over the life of the system when compared to often over rated HO T5 light systems or similar) or simply that LEDs are not that good based on anecdotal advice.
It is also noteworthy that there are many LED fixtures now flooding the market they have copious amounts of emitters to make up for the lack of patent rights to the best emitters, please be careful and do not fall for one of these poor quality LED Lights.
Please read the Aquarium Lighting article below or see this page for the latest in LED lights: LED aquarium light systems.
My latest study with Red Slime Algae really showed me how much these LED lights can do for an aquarium.
For Fish only or FOWLR, the T2 lights, SHO, or Marine White LED are excellent choices for good lighting that can be upgraded (especially the T2 and LED are easily added to). With Reef tanks, multiples of the Reef White/Marine Blue or these LEDs combined with T2 or T5 lights are excellent modern technology choices.
Lighting is a complex subject, deserving a full article, so I strongly recommend reading this extremely in depth article for vastly more aquarium lighting information from basics to complex: “AQUARIUM LIGHTING, Kelvin, Nanometers, PAR and more.” The above is a MUST read article for ANY advanced Marine/Reef Aquarium keeper!
Also please note that for fish only or fish with some invertebrates such as Arrow Crabs, lighting is not as important a factor, however if you plan to have anemones, soft coral and especially hard corals, good lighting is a MAJOR factor in their success! Also note that although the 3-5 watt per gallon rule is a reasonable starting point for older technology lights, this is an archaic rule of thumb as there are so many other factors that are also important such as lumens per watt, useful energy, tank depth, and more. Again PLEASE read the above article for more about lighting!
If you are keeping reef tank with Photosynthetically sensitive corals, another important point that is often missed is specimen placement. I would move corals as high up in the water column as possible, this especially important with SPS corals (short polyp stony corals) where placement on the rocks directly under your lights is even more essential.
Sometimes in conversations with reef enthusiasts that are questioning different lighting systems/ideas is that it is often missed that the most high light requiring corals (such as SPS) do not grow 100 feet (30 meters) below the surface in the reefs and that these corals will be just below the surface, so regardless of the lights you choose, placement is extremely important. Even less light demanding tropical reef building corals species are restricted to the euphotic zone, the region in the ocean where light penetrates to a depth of approximately 230 feet or 70 meters.
I should also note that with SPS corals in my own experience, placement low or even in substrate that I have observed the corals getting “eaten away” by bacteria from the bottom up; while this is an anecdotal observation of mine (as other factors were not tested in a controlled scientific study), it is still consideration in coral specimen placement.
The bottom line is that you can have the best lighting system that money can buy, but poor placement of specimens can make it all for not.
Finally do not inadvertently block your light by having dirty salt covered bulbs, or even by placing a glass top between your lights and aquarium water. A glass top is OK for most fish but often can block essential light energy necessary for corals.
I recommend using a Polycarbonate top (if a top is even required) as glass block more than 60% of beneficial UVA rays. Polycarbonate only blocks about 8-10% (provided it is kept clean). Most retailers specializing in plastics can custom cut you such a top from Polycarbonate. I got my Polycarbonate at Paragon Plastics in South El Monte, CA
[3] TEST KITS;
An ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, Hydrometer, and KH (Alkalinity) test kit are all important. For reef aquariums a Calcium and Magnesium Test Kit are also highly recommended.
Start with a good marine salt and mix it to a specific gravity of 1.019- 1.022 for fish (although there is some controversy as to whether fish should be kept in a slightly hyposalinity environment, my admittedly less than scientific records on this subject seem to indicate a slightly lower incidence of some parasitic diseases). A specific gravity of 1.023- 1.026 is best for reef tanks/invertebrates. Be careful with too high or too low of a specific gravity as this can cause problems with proper osmotic function in fish (I have heard of persons being told to keep their marine fish at a specific gravity of 1.012 to prevent or treat disease, this is too low except for treatment of Cyptocaryon and even then the salinity must be lowered carefully and raised carefully, along with a stable pH!).
For more information about osmotic function in fish, please read this article: “How Do Fish Drink; Proper Osmotic Function”.
Use Reverse Osmosis (RO) water to top off with for evaporation to prevent potential buildup of nitrate or other elements from tap water or even well water. If tap water is used (which again I recommend avoiding), use water conditioners such as “Prime” to neutralize the chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals. For much more about tap water please see this article:
For Reef tanks I recommend using ONLY RO water for mixing of salt as well, as the Phosphates and Nitrates can quickly build up after continued water changes with tap water containing nitrates and especially phosphates (PO4).
Variable (although more important than many realize)
Silica
under 2 ppm
.06 – 2.7 ppm
Strontium
5-15 ppm
8 ppm
Iodine
Generally not a problem with modern salt mixes & maintenance, however levels should not fall below .06 ppm with most corals/algae present
.06 ppm
Please note that there are differences for actual ocean parameters such as alkalinity (KH), this is due to the fact that the marine aquarium is a closed system and this can be depleted quickly, so a higher alkalinity “reserve” is necessary. Salinity for fish is best lower to simply aid in parasitic disease prevention, but for reef tanks this is not recommended (see: Aquarium Answers; Osmoregulation.
Also note that meq/L can be approximately converted to ppm by multiplying by 50, while dKH can be converted to ppm by multiplying by 17.9.
A few more water chemistry tips;
*Be patient with the cycling process. There are several methods, but adding CURED live rock will help jump start this process. You can add small amounts of food every day before fish are added to help stimulate the formation of aerobic bacteria. For much more information about cycling, see this article: "Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle".
*Change water regularly especially in areas of waste accumulation, this will help maintain low nitrates. (see my article "Reasons for aquarium cleaning").
*Please note that with Reef tanks in particular, keeping exacting water parameters is more essential than with fish. Many corals will often slowly die with poor water parameters such as inadequate minerals, buffers, etc. But even more so with high organics or compounds related to organic such as nitrates and PO4 (phosphates). Coral turning brown is almost a sure sign of high PO4 and possibly nitrates. Lighting does not play as much of a role in coral "browning" as some inexperienced anecdotal claims state except in cases of UV-B burning that some Metal Halides can cause (UV-B is not generally found in T2, T5, & LEDs). Back To Top
TRACE AND MINOR ELEMENTS:
This is very important, as many trace and minor elements are depleted by normal bio processes. HOWEVER, with normal water changes using a quality marine mix and many of these trace elements are rarely in short supply; this includes Iodine & Strontium. As well using a quality buffer (for carbonates, pH Alkalinity) and balanced methods of adding Calcium one should not have issues with most elements being under recommended levels and if they are, this indicates something askew in maintenance and the maybe the quality of salt mix used.
Since water changes are rarely enough to replenish normal depletion of carbonates and calcium, buffers such as SeaChem Marine Buffer (adds sodium, magnesium, calcium, strontium, and potassium salts of carbonate, bicarbonate, chloride, sulfate, and borate) are important for maintaining a proper kH (alkalinity) and add many trace and minor elements as well. Many Buffering products available do not add both calcium and magnesium and they are BOTH necessary together for proper chemistry and fish health. It should be noted, that unlike freshwater fish which absorb the water around them, marine fish drink the water constantly, which affects their internal body chemistry to the surrounding water.
When KH (alkalinity) is not an issue the use of straight trace elements such as Sea Chem Marine Trace Elements is another option (but as noted earlier, the need for plain trace elements should not be a problem under normal care and conditions). However this may not be the case with advanced Reefs (where depletion from growth may exceed water change replenishment).
Another product that is useful, especially for reef keepers is Sea Chem Reef Builder (which is similar to Marine Buffer except Reef Builder does NOT raise pH, and is aimed more for the needs of a reef aquarium). Generally I would recommend this product for alkalinity and other important minor elements when pH is not a problem.
Kalkwasser is a popular method for pH stabilization and alkalinity however I personally do not recommend it for beginners. If Kalkwasser is added to your aquarium too fast it will be converted to carbonate ions which ties up Calcium your inhabitants need. With proper drip or vinegar methods it will convert to Bi-carbonates allowing for the necessary Calcium. If you plan to use Kalkwasser, I recommend reading my article in the section about Calcium: “The Importance of Calcium, Kalkwasser” Or this outside article: Kalkwasser in Depth; http://www.reefscapes.net/articles/breefcase/kalkwasser.html
Most of the coralline algae, which secrete calcium carbonate need not only bio available calcium but other trace elements in the proper balance which is why a complete buffer such as Sea Chem Marine Buffer should be used to adjust alkalinity. KH (or alkalinity as is called in marine aquariums) should be over 240 ppm (13 dKH). Normal bio processes such as the break down of nitrogenous wastes produce acids that constantly chip away at your alkaline reserves, so alkalinity is important to monitor and maintain through water changes, buffers, and aragonite or similar sand/ crushed coral gravel.
*Please see this outside resource for calculator calculate reef chemistry additions for Calcium, Alkalinity, Iodide (Iodine), Strontium, or Magnesium using commercial products or standard chemicals (please note that not all products are represented): SeaChem Reef Chemistry Calculator
*Complete diets will also add some trace and minor elements as well as water changes and aragonite substrates.
Changing water regularly with a quality mix (preferably using RO or DI water to mix with it) will also generally add back depleted trace and minor elements. I find water changes for this reason alone more important in smaller aquariums in particular. Make sure and purchase a quality mix (of which there are many), a few suggestions are Instant Ocean (a popular quality product) or Tropic Marine (out of Germany, probably the best IMO).
Calcium Reactor/ Advanced Methods
For more advanced reefs you may want or need to add separate elements such as Strontium, Iodine (Iodide), Magnesium and Calcium. Make sure and test your water first if you think you need to add iodine and strontium in particular; this article gives the desired levels of these elements: “Aquarium Answers; Test Kits” . I have never found a need to add additional Calcium other than the methods outlined above; water Changes, Sea Chem Marine Buffer (which also contains strontium), & Sea Chem Reef Calcium , or Kalkwasser however some advanced aquarists prefer to use a Calcium Reactor
Another more simple alternative to a calcium reactor (albeit not as effective) is the use of a Fluidized Filter employing Oolitic sand media. The advantage besides the obvious simplicity is this is a second to none high capacity nitrifying filter that can go inline from a canister filter, power head, or sump pump to increase bio filtration and also via the constant friction of the Oolitic sand, add essential calcium and trace elements! The TMC V2 Fluidized Filter is the best one currently available, although any potential buyer should note that the Oolitic Sand is sold separately by TMC (it comes with silica sand).
Dosing *Once known rates of depletion of certain elements (between water changes) is known, many advanced reef keepers prefer to add “dosers” to add measured amounts of known depleted elements on a regular basis. Many videos/articles show advanced systems with pumps, etc. to perform this function which often makes many newbies question whether this is a worthwhile undertaking. Personally I have found a simple gravity doser where the reef aquarium keeper mixes the necessary elements (such as Iodine or Sea Chem Reef Builder) with RO water (which if properly calibrated can also add water for evaporation). I use simple air line tubing along with an airline control valve to control the drip rate,
*If fish and other marine inhabitants do not have proper trace and minor elements, their health will suffer. I have been called to customers with Yellow Tangs with red streaks and sunken abdomens, the only treatment I did was add trace elements, adjust kH, change water, and improve the diet; and the fish recovered (often this can also be a sign of Vibrio and requires further treatment, please see this article for more information: Treatment and Identification of Aeromonas and Vibrio in Aquariums and Ponds
UV Sterilizers are in my opinion, not essential, but based on 30 years of research and hands on tests, they are VERY important. UV Sterilizers help with disease prevention and also help maintain a proper Redox Potential (oxidation/reduction properties of water). The Redox Potential/ Balance is often overlooked by many aquarists, even advanced aquarium keepers. For more information please see my article about “Aquarium UV and Pond UV Sterilizers ”. This article is one of the most in depth articles on the subject of UV Sterilization, using real research to dispel many of the myths about this important tool for aquarium keeping. This is a must read!, and to be even more blunt, although these devices are not essential, considering the difference a properly installed UV Sterilizer can make (including Redox), no serious marine keeper should be without one especially when one considers that a Quality UV Sterilizer often cost less than on Marine Angel or other prize specimen.
Even with smaller aquariums (Nano Reefs, etc.) a UV sterilizer is still a good idea (although not essential). A UV can be fitted to Nano Reef Tank with a small internal filter such as a "Via Aqua 305 Internal Filter" as an example. Most Bio Cube aquariums have built in filters in the back that easily attached to a small UV Sterilizer (see the picture to the left)
Another method to set up a simple Nano Reef is to utilize an Internal Wet/Dry Filter which would convert a 10-20 gallon aquarium into a less expensive “Bio Cube” Aquarium.
The best way to acclimate your new fish, corals or other delicate marine inhabitants is to place your bag in a bucket, then open a VERY small area so as to insert an air line tube. Use this tube along with an in line Air line valve or clip (such as a clothes pin) so that you can adjust the drip. Start a siphon in this line and adjust this drip to about one drip per every 2-3 seconds (more or less). Let this drip run for about 1 hour minimum (Sometimes less for fish, often much longer for corals, anemones). It is also important to carefully open your bag as little as possible, otherwise you may have a “gassing out” effect that can drastically lower your pH in your bag containing your new arrivals which can shock and kill them.
Here are couple of commonly encountered algae in marine aquariums, especially with live rock. Both are forms of Macro Algae, the top being grape Caulerpa while the bottom is the fast growing (and illegal in some states) taxifolia. However the taxifolia is an excellent source for food for many fish from Dwarf angels to tangs as well a great Nitrate Sponge that is useful in Refugiums/
Although not the problem or scourge that red slime (Cyanobacteria), Filamentous Hair Algae can over take an aquarium in short order and is an indicator of high nitrates and phosphates. Although I consider green algae growth generally an indicator of a healthy marine aquarium, normally I recommend less problematic algae such as the Macro-Algae.
For further information about aquarium algae, and treatment there of, please visit this article from Aquarium Answers (including the further resources found in this article): “Aquarium Algae”
[8] PROPER FISH FEEDING, including species specific diet;
Do not over crowd a marine aquarium. The amount of fish depends on the aquarium surface area and the type of fish. My article “Basic Aquarium Principles” addresses this subject. Feed your marine fish according to the type of food they naturally eat in the wild. Aquatic based foods such as HBH Marine Flake or Spirulina 20 Flake are good generic fish foods for Tangs, angels, clown fish, etc. Of coarse a basic fish food is but a starting place for proper feeding, especially among the diversity of marine fish commonly kept. For instance, Marine Angels and Tangs will do best with fresh algae such as Red Gracillaria algae that is now commercially available in many local or internet locations (see picture to the left or this website: ORA Algae). As well Ocean Nutrition has many excellent frozen prepared foods for specific fish such as Trigger Diet & Angel Diet.
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of a good diet in healthy fish, as many trace nutrients are introduced to the marine chemistry this way. Often many aquarists will spend more time chasing pH (which a steady pH is more important than the actual number, even for marine fish, within reason of coarse) all the while feeding poor diets and then wonder why their fish never thrive. Even with the basic flake foods, often low end products are fed, with the aquarists thinking this is a name brand therefore it must be good, all the while the number one brand flake food is quite bluntly far from the best. Spirulina 20 Flake is vastly superior to most marine flake foods that the number one ingredient is Spirulina (not way down on the list like many brands if at all in the product)
Many Fish need specific foods in their diet for long term health, here are just a few:
*Angels from the Genus “Pomacanthus” such as Emperor or Koran Angels also need sponge in their diet.
*Angels from the Genus “Centropyge” such as Flame Angels and Coral Beautys need marine algae in their diet. Angelfish from this Genus also should not be housed together in a tank much under 150-200 gallon and then ample hiding places should be provided.
*Butterfly Fish from the Genus “Chemon” such as Copperband Butterflies need small foods such as mysis shrimp, FD or frozen shrimp, and fresh or frozen clam. However, even though many will eat these foods in captivity, many butterflys only truly thrive with live coral to pick at and be at least a part of their diet.
*Trigger Fish from the Genus “Balistoides” such as Clown Triggerfish require Urchin in their diet. I will also note here that Triggers are generally very aggressive, so care is advised in placement with other tank mates (I have especially found Pink Tail and Undulatus Triggers to be "nasty").
*Mandarin Dragonets (also called Mandarin Gobies)
These fish can be very hardy under the right conditions when starting with a healthy specimen which is feeding. They seem to be very resistant to parasitic diseases such as Ich, apparently due to their thick slime coating. Many Mandarins are kept under conditions in pet stores that cause them to slowly starve (I always sold mine out of reef tanks). Look for sunken bellies before purchasing a specimen. If possible, select a specimen that is eating frozen food.
Feeding is the problem with Mandarins. Amphipods and copepods (small crustaceans that inhabit the sea floor) are the best diet for these fish if they can be cultured in small broken live rock piles. Some will take foods such as frozen brine shrimp and bloodworms. Here are a few feeding suggestions:
• Try feeding roe, or fish eggs. These can be obtained at Asian markets under the name of flying fish eggs. They look like the orange little balls on sushi rolls.
• Create a "pod pile" of small chunks of live rock in a corner. Pile the rubble up so fish cannot enter and spray the area with minute bits of food to herd the pods into the safety area to feed and reproduce.
As for starter fish, this is where a good LFS comes in handy, they can help you decide based on what you want to achieve in an aquarium.
Here are a few suggestions: *Yellow Tangs *Percula, Sebae, or Osellaris Clowns *Koran Angels *Spotted Hawkfish *Blue Hippo Tangs *Yellow Tail and Green Chromis Damsels (not as aggressive as many other damsels). *Pseudochromis such as the purple. *Royal Gramma Basslet *Coral, Dianna, or Spanish Hogfish Also most Groupers and Triggers as well as Volitan Lionfish are very hardy however these are aggressive fish that WILL grow. Most Hermit Crabs, Coral Banded Shrimp, and Arrow Crabs are hardy invertebrates
Foxface and Lionfish produce a neurotoxin that attacks the nervous system, so does the Stone Fish and the Blue Ring Octopus (as well as the Black Widow Spider). Each of these fish puts in different amounts, the Blue Ring the most. This is important to note as a second or third sting with neurotoxin can be life threatening (which a Blue Ring is very much so due to the concentrated amount injected. Foxface and Lionfish are not generally a danger though to the hobbyist, the best treatment is a hot compress of 50 C with baking soda. At this temperature tests have shown the poison to be denatured.
Here are marine animals of note: Blue Ring Octopus: The strong neurotoxin interferes with the body's nervous system. The victim will immediately experience numbness of the mouth and tongue, blurring of vision, loss of touch, difficulty with speech and swallowing, and paralysis of the legs and nausea. If the victim does not receive medical treatment immediately, full paralysis may occur within minutes, followed by unconsciousness and death due to heart failure and lack of oxygen. There is no anti-venom for the poison from a blue-ringed octopus. It is usually necessary to perform continuous CPR on a victim until the effects of the venom have subsided. This may take several hours, but it may mean the difference between life or the death for the victim. For more about keeping a common brown Octopus as a pet, please read this article: “Octopus as Pets”
Box Fish, Trunk fish, & Cowfish: When these fish are frightened or harassed, the fish in this family have the ability to release a fatal toxin from their bodies. They can kill every living thing in your aquarium, leaving you with an empty aquarium. Be careful when mixing these fish in an aquarium (even with territorial fish such as Domino Damsels or Maroon Clownfish), unless you want to take the risk of possibly loosing everything. Although this has only happened once and was because I added the cowfish to an aquarium with very dominant fish. That said I have kept dozens of cowfish in mine and my clients aquariums with no problems.
If these are fish you like to keep, I recommend a large, non aggressive aquarium with place to hide, and good filtration that may include carbon. Back To Top
[11] MARINE ICH (Cryptocaryon irritans) TREATMENT;
It is best to move your fish to a quarantine aquarium with sponge filter that can be seeded from your established aquarium. This hospital aquarium should also have no gravel and just enough décor to give the fish a place to hide. Try and keep this tank in the dark for the first 3-5 days of treatment Change 25% water daily using water from your main aquarium, thus performing water changes there too. MAKE SURE NO equipment from your hospital aquariums makes contact with your main aquarium (you can soak in a copper solution then rinse in scalding hot water). Your medication options starting with the strongest are: *Copper Sulfate kept at 25 ppm *Medicated Wonder Shell (Marine version) *Malachite Green The copper sulfate is your best bet, but this cannot be used in your main aquarium.
A freshwater dip (pH adjusted to 8.2) combined with methylene blue for 3-5 minutes will also help. I recommend using the methylene blue at double strength for this dip.
Do not place your fish in your main aquarium for 3 weeks.
This disease (or infestation) is also called Coral Fish Disease and saltwater Velvet. Oodinium has been a fast moving killer in marine fish keeping for many years. Oodinium is a parasitic dinoflagellate which can infect and kill many species of saltwater fish. Similar to Cryptocaryon (Marine Ich and other external fish parasites, this Dinoflagellate is much more dangerous in the confines of an aquarium, especially a small overcrowded tank due to rapid re-infection.
This article is aimed at giving out good, reliable and tested information to help the reader make informed choices (not just anecdotal as I have used many different methods in my maintenance business over the years and have tested the differences). However this article is not complete and I recommend reading the links provided here and other articles as well. I also apologize to my readers if I threw out a lot of information that has both pros and cons leaving one to wonder what is truly best, unfortunately there is not a one best way IMO and experience, however I will give some personal suggestions later in this summary based on my experience (again for those advanced aquarists, I realize there are other ways too). I strongly recommend reading our filtration article and UV Sterilization article, as these are often an area of controversy and misinformation; whether it be what a UV can or cannot do or the MUST have filters for marine keeping such as the Protein Skimmer (which are very useful, however if one applies the Berlin Method properly and adds good properly maintained filters such as a simple sponge filter or fluidized filter, you can test the results and find out they do help, but are NOT essential for marine fish in particular). That said, I not recommending against them either, just pointing out that there re many combinations that are often overlooked or are simply trashed out of hand without proper research (UVs, Sponge Filters, and Fluidized Filters fall into this category).
Here is an article/diagram with many alternative suggestions as to how to set up a saltwater aquarium, (please click on the picture for the full article and full size diagram):
This is a basic article, if you are interested in SW, please read/ask/learn as much as possible. Also find a good LFS with good advice. Avoid internet sites, LFS, and books that say their way is the only way; this usually is a bad indicator of closed mindedness that results in new research being ignored.
Also check out this unique blog style web site with some of best, most unique information on the internet:
Aquarium (and Pond) Answers, please visit this site:
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SALTWATER AQUARIUM BASICS; Fish, Nano, Reef
TMC Reverse Osmosis Filter System with TDS Meter
TMC Fluidized Sand Bed Filters
