•Overview •KH •GH (& magnesium)•Calcium (including improper use of Plaster of Paris) •Electrolytes •pH •Amazon River Tanks •Facts about Calcium and Electrolytes •Summary |
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•Overview •KH •GH (& magnesium)•Calcium (including improper use of Plaster of Paris) •Electrolytes •pH •Amazon River Tanks •Facts about Calcium and Electrolytes •Summary |
 THE IMPORTANCE OF CALCIUM, ELECTROLYTES, MAGNESIUM, AND KH IN YOUR AQUARIUM (Salt & Freshwater).By Carl Strohmeyer Overview: Many aquarists overlook the need for calcium, electrolytes, magnesium and the effect of a proper KH (Carbonate hardness) in their freshwater aquarium. Electrolytes and calcium are essential for osmotic function in fish and many aquarists make the mistake of believing that some fish such as Discus do not require Calcium or electrolytes. Fish will often adjust to poor electrolyte and calcium levels, however this does not prove this is best anymore than fish that adjust to aquariums that are crowded with infrequent water changes. As in aquariums that are overdue for a water change then finally have one, aquariums that are brought up to good electrolyte levels by use of products such mineral blocks or Sea Chem Buffer may also show initial stress until the inhabitants adjust to the improved water quality. Often aquarists in both fresh and saltwater worry to much about pH while ignoring the importance of GH and KH (alkalinity in SW) as to pH stability which is more important than the actual pH number in freshwater. In marine aquariums the actual pH number is of higher importance than in most FW aquariums, however even in saltwater a correct alkalinity (KH) is a must for proper buffering of marine pH and as well elements such as Calcium, Magnesium and Chloride are also very important to a healthy saltwater aquarium as you will read further in this article. Popular aquarium traditions state that only certain fish need water high in electrolytes and calcium, this is only partly true. The Fish Body (organism) is alkaline by nature and is constantly attacked by free radical which are usually acidic. While freshwater fish absorb needed H2O (saltwater drink constantly), the need for these electrolytes and calcium for some fish (such as Amazon River fish) is lower than some, however Proper Osmotic function stills requires that calcium and other electrolytes be present in the aquatic environment as well as foods. This is why I have found that even fish such as Ram Cichlids thrive in a Reducing environment that has a Calcium level that often brings the GH over 150 ppm and why the aquarium traditions of lower GH for certain fish are only half correct. KH is basically the buffering capacity of your aquarium, a KH above 50 ppm helps prevent sudden drops in pH. KH (carbonate hardness) is an important source of energy for nitrifying bacteria that eliminate ammonia and nitrite. In addition, carbonates are used by plants for photosynthesis when carbon dioxide ( CO2) is absent. You can convert dH (German hardness) to ppm by multiplying your dH by 17.9. This is especially important with livebearers, goldfish, African cichlids, brackish and many other freshwater fish (which should have an even higher KH over 100-150 or more). In saltwater aquariums your KH (which is generally referred to as alkalinity) should be an absolute minimum of 240 ppm. The production of Nitrates (nitric acid) will slowly reduce your ph, but a proper KH will keep a more stable ph. This is important to note, if your KH is low and your ph has been dropping, a large water change can cause stress on your fish, or even kill them (don't get me wrong, water changes are VERY important). What is missed by many aquarists is that the pH scale is logarithmic, which means a 1 point drop in pH is a tenfold sing in acid or alkalinity (for more about this please read the pH section) A proper electrolyte and calcium level, GH, & KH (by the term “proper” I mean what is the best level for the fish kept) can also have a positive effect on the aquarium Redox Potential, which recent studies have shown to be more important to fish and other animal health than pH. Proper electrolyte balance contributes to the Redox reduction potential of water, maintaining a more stable water environment, better clarity and the excess electrons attach themselves to free radicals, improving disease resistance. For more information here, please see this article: THE REDOX POTENTIAL IN AQUARIUMS (& PONDS) AND HOW IT RELATES TO PROPER AQUATIC HEALTH MORE ABOUT KH: Another consideration of KH is that you can generally safely add the buffers (both freshwater and saltwater) that effect KH without sudden changes in chemistry (unless your freshwater KH is under 50 ppm already), unlike a direct ph or GH change. Maintaining these KH buffers keeps your tanks pH form drastic swings which can be deadly. Baking Soda (Sodium Bi-Carbonate HCO3-), is often used for KH, Sodium Bi-Carbonate will buffer at 8.0 to 8.2. Just a little Sodium Carbonate will absorb free H+ ions, and this causes alkalinity (which is the lack of H+ ions). To stop the Sodium Carbonate ions from consuming too much H+ and to keep a pH of 7.0 we need to restrict the amount of Baking Soda used, as it is always looking for H+ ions to consume. This is why I prefer using products that not only contain sodium carbonates (or sodium bi carbonates), but the proper ratios of other minor elements such as Calcium and Magnesium. Sea Chem Buffer (Marine OR Freshwater) and to a lesser degree, aragonite and Mineral Blocks are examples. Sea Chem Buffer can be safely used for raising kH (& pH) in freshwater as well or you can use Sea Chem Alkaline Buffer as both are preferable and safer than baking soda, especially in community aquariums where baking soda can change pH too quickly (also baking soda maintains a more stable KH). The added calcium and other elements keep a more stable KH/GH and add necessary trace and minor elements (of course, use in moderation in freshwater). This article will explain a little more about the need for other elements besides Baking Soda (HCO3): "Proper Osmotic Function; Electrolytes". Wonder Shells are an excellent compliment for raising Calcium, magnesium, and electrolyte levels quickly when used with aragonite or even Baking Soda, however by themselves they do not raise KH much (they are great for Calcium and electrolytes though and for maintaining KH). Sea Chem Buffers or similar products are better for pH/kH control in livebearer and African cichlids aquariums or a combination of Marine Buffer and Wonder Shells. Before I over promote Wonder Shells, these can aid in proper water management, but they are not a magic bullet in ANY aquarium for poor aquarium husbandry such as mulm build up under gravel or decorations. Aragonite or crushed coral is sometimes employed for KH and GH stabilization, however aragonite and crushed coral (as with Wonder Shells) only stabilize KH and should not be used in place of a true KH buffer such as Sea Chem Alkaline Buffer . I do not recommend aragonite for soft water or general aquaria. Aragonite is good at stabilizing a higher kH of around 240 ppm or more, which is the minimum KH (alkalinity) needed for Marine Aquariums, but does not respond to changes rapidly enough at lower kH levels. Even in marine aquariums with aragonite, this may not always be enough to maintain a proper KH (alkalinity) level, especially in tanks high bio loads and without adequate water changes (even skimming can remove some elements). In lower pH community tanks (6.8 to 7.4) KH buffers such as Sea Chem Alkaline Buffer are still important, however I like to counter these with natural lower pH “buffers” such as Almond Leaves , Peat, and/or Mango/Drift Wood. Buffering your freshwater aquarium is especially important if you have plants fed by CO2 which will raise pH during peak growth times, and there is scientific evidence that GH plays a role here as well; please see this article for more about this subject: “AQUARIUM PLANTS; see PROPER NUTRIENTS ” Back to baking soda, this is an old stand by method based on the fact that baking soda does raise pH and kH, the problem is there is much new research to show that calcium, magnesium, electrolytes and Redox play a more important role in aquatic chemistry than just pH or basic kH alone (which is another reason good old fashioned water changes often help improve fish health). Unfortunately the aquatics hobby is full of aquarist (especially in forums or uninformed LFS) that regurgitate this old information without checking the facts. If Baking Soda is used, I recommend using Wonder Shells to added needed calcium and other important electrolytes. If you have a very unstable KH level (drops rapidly), look into causes such as a large amount of decomposing organic material. The more organic break down (de-nitrification), the more acids produced. Some filters if not cleaned regularly can cause this; including canister, UGF, and Wet/Dry. For a really informative (and scientific) article about the relation of KH (Buffers) and pH, please follow this link: pH of buffer - Henderson-Hasselbalch equation  GH (& MAGNESIUM): General hardness (GH or dGH) refers to the dissolved concentration primarily of calcium, magnesium and other mineral ions. Both Calcium and magnesium are important for proper internal osmotic processes in fish (and invertebrates). Other ions can contribute to water hardness but are usually insignificant and difficult to measure. When fish are said to prefer “soft” or “hard” water, it is GH, not the kH that is being referred to. GH will not directly affect pH although "hard" water is generally alkaline due to some interaction of GH and kH (it should also be noted that GH DOES effect pH when photosynthesis is thrown into the equation, please see this article: Planted Freshwater Aquariums). A high GH in freshwater can cause respiration problems in fish (over 500 ppm in my tests with community fish), for a general freshwater aquarium a GH between 100 to 200 ppm is best (lower for Discus, higher for mollies/ African Cichlids). Products such as Wonder Shells or similar mineral blocks are excellent for GH maintenance, also the use of aragonite in filters can also be employed for GH maintenance although my experience has shown the method of using aragonite to be less responsive to rapid changes in mineral needs in FW (especially planted aquariums) than the use of Mineral Blocks. It should also be noted that your GH may be artificially high from the use of mineral blocks such as Wonder Shells, however much of this is Calcium of which most all fish (fresh and saltwater as well as invertebrates) can tolerate in high levels. Epsom salts contain magnesium sulfate, are best used for therapeutic reasons such as to aid in flushing the system as it aids in and speeds osmotic function , help to move fluids out of the body. Sulfates, one of the major components of Epsom Salt, have been shown effective in improving nutrient absorption and toxin elimination. Magnesium, the other major component of Epsom Salt, plays a role in the activity of more than 325 enzymes. That said you would only want to add about 1/4- 1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons (18 liters). Although useful for therapeutic reasons, magnesium and sulfates in particular are best introduced as part of a greater trace element balance in an aquarium. I ONLY recommend Epsom Salts for therapeutic aquarium treatment. Also note that Epsom salts (as well as sodium chloride; regular table salt) do NOT evaporate or decompose like antibiotics, so only add more after water changes Magnesium is important for proper osmotic functions in fish and invertebrates. Magnesium is better added in the proper balance with calcium (which both are essential to each other for proper utilization), in such products as Wonder Shells or aragonite sand in a small bag in the filter (although the later is not as reliable). Magnesium should be part of your overall mineral balance in your aquarium and kept at a level of 1200 to 1400 ppm in marine aquariums (lower for freshwater) CALCIUM CARBONATE:  Calcium carbonate in your aquarium will keep a more stable electrolyte balance (for osmotic function), while magnesium is another important element that works with calcium. A proper amount of Calcium and Magnesium in your aquarium will affect the fish health positively. Magnesium and calcium have been shown to increase resistance to degenerate diseases by lowering the acidity in the body. This will help with prevention of ich, fungus, and general “wear and tear” in your fish. Calcium also helps in healing and stress, and without proper calcium levels healing may be difficult or impossible. Calcium is also important and has been shown to both prevent and treat Hole in the Hea disease common to cichlids (also referred to as HITH). The addition of antibiotics (such as Tetracycline) will lower calcium absorption. In fact I will go a step further as need for Calcium (even in freshwater) seems to be totally misunderstood (I have observed this quite a lot in both scientific and non-scientific observations over the years!). Here is an important quote: “The presence of free (ionic) calcium at relatively high concentrations in culture water helps reduce the loss of other salts (e.g. sodium and potassium) from fish body fluids (i.e. blood). Sodium and potassium are the most important salts in fish blood and are critical for normal heart, nerve and muscle function. In low calcium water, fish can lose (leak) substantial quantities of these salts into the water.” See reference below. Understanding Water Hardness. In freshwater aquariums I recommend a minimum of 100 ppm of calcium (which a GH of 100+ ppm will generally provide) Another note about calcium; Calcium is very important to proper discus health, yet calcium can adversely affect the kH of a discus aquarium when combined with sodium carbonates or bi carbonates, which is generally kept at a pH below 6.5. I have successfully used calcium such as Wonder Shells, in discus aquariums by using a mix of RO (Reverse Osmosis) water and tap water (dilution will vary depending on your tap and tank water parameters). I then add electrolytes to the RO water and add peat to the filters. I have used this method successfully with discus and added the needed calcium with no pH climb. Calcium/ Kalkwasser/Magnesium in Marine Aquariums Your Calcium level should be a minimum of 400 ppm for marine. For saltwater aquariums, I recommend Reef Calcium; polygluconate along with the use of aragonite sand or crushed coral for calcium level maintenance (Calcium Generators also work well for advanced aquarists). Although Kalkwasser is popular among many advanced marine aquarists, caution should be used with this method of adding calcium to your marine aquarium (this is not to say Kalkwasser does not work, in fact introduced properly it is an excellent way to regulate calcium and alkalinity in saltwater aquariums). Here is how Kalkwasser works: Used properly Kalkwasser (Calcium Hydroxide) is slowly dripped into your aquarium, it captures free Carbon Dioxide present in the tank water and converts it to Bicarbonate ions. However if you drip too fast or if there is not enough Carbon Dioxide available in the water, Carbonate ions will be formed which will make the Ca++ you are trying to add to your tank get wasted by the useless precipitation of Calcium Carbonate (often forming a white residue that precipitates out of your aquarium). Too rapid addition of Kalkwasser may actually cause the Calcium and Alkalinity in your tank to go down instead of up. See the equation below: Ca++ + 2(HCO3-) + Ca++ + 2(OH-) <==> 2 CaCO3 + 2 H2O Often even a slow drip of Kalkwasser (Calcium Hydroxide) can cause the above reaction if there is not enough CO2 present in your marine aquarium. One method to avoid this is to add 15ml of 5% Distilled White Vinegar (Acetic Acid) into a 1 liter or 1 quart container. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of Kalkwasser into the Acetic Acid, and then dilute to 1 liter (1 quart) volume with either RO/DI water (tank water can be used in a pinch). Finally, back to the aspect of Calcium (& magnesium which should be 1200- 1400 ppm) in general is if these important elements are in “short supply” besides the before mentioned problems, an aquarist may also see pH swings a few hours after the lights go on as the process of Photosynthesis in algae will increase pH during daylight hours if low levels of calcium and magnesium are present (as noted earlier in the GH section as per studies). Keep in mind that a pH swing from 7.8 to 8.2 (as is common in this situation) is four fold increase in pH since the pH scale is logarithmic. Other needs for calcium: • Calcium is a vital component in blood clotting systems and also helps in wound healing. • Calcium helps to control nerve transmission, and release of neurotransmitters. • Calcium is an essential component in the production of enzymes and hormones that regulate digestion, energy, and fat metabolism. • Calcium helps to transport ions (electrically charged particles) across the membrane. • Calcium is essential for muscle contraction. • Calcium assists in maintaining all cells and connective tissues in the body. Other needs for Magnesium: • Normal calcium balance in organs • Healthy muscles • Healthy nerve transduction • Healthy calcium balance in blood vessels For further reading about Calcium, please see these two articles of reference: This one is great Understanding Water Hardness A very well informed forum post: Calcium and Osmoregulation For more information about how Calcium, pH, GH, and KH relates to ponds, please see this article about Ponds: A Clear Pond; Pond Information About Plaster of Paris for calcium (also Lime): Plaster of Paris is often recommended as a source of calcium for ponds or aquariums in place of aragonite, Wonder Shells or similar, this is NOT a substitute for Wonder Shells aragonite or similar and is not the same! Plaster of Paris is a poor choice for GH or Calcium as Calcium needs to be in the proper ratios with other elements such as Magnesium to be utilized by aquatic life (such as osmotic function). Lime is also similarly recommended for ponds for KH and pH, however it is simply CaO and does not contains other elements necessary including bi-carbonates and magnesium to name but a few. Here is a list of ingredients of Plaster of Paris: *CaSO4 , 1/2H2O: 97.97% * SiO: 0.94% * Al2O3: 0.69% * Fe2O3: 0.28% * MgO : 00.12% For a further explanation of Plaster of Paris in aquariums and Ponds, please read this article: THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PLASTER OF PARIS AND PRODUCTS SUCH AS WONDER SHELLS OR SEALAB ELECTROLYTES;  Electrolytes are molecular substances containing free ions which behave as an electrically conductive medium. In fish (or other living things) the primary ions of electrolytes are sodium (Na+), potassium (K+), calcium (Ca++), magnesium (Mg++), chloride (Cl-), phosphate (PO4---), and hydrogen carbonate (HCO3-). Fish and other aquatic life forms such as shrimp require a subtle and complex electrolyte balance between the intracellular (inside the cell) and extra cellular (outside the cell such as plasma membranes) environment. In particular, the maintenance of precise osmotic gradients of electrolytes is important. These gradients affect and regulate the hydration of the fish, blood pH, and disease resistance and are important for proper nerve and muscle function. Salt is commonly used in a dose of one tablespoon per 5 gallons (20 liters) in freshwater aquariums. This is one way to add some electrolytes, but this should not be the only (Wonder Shells add many other electrolytes which is a reason I strongly recommend these, especially in smaller tanks such as with Bettas). Salt also will aid in disease prevention as it will help with the generation of the slime coat (or Mucous) on fish as salt acts on the osmotic gradient. But care needs to be given with salt sensitive fish such as catfish not to exceed this amount. Another aspect of salt is that although it aids in the prevention and even treatment of Freshwater Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifilis), it is poor treatment for a full blown infection despite many anecdotal comments by many. The importance of electrolytes/trace elements in Marine aquariums is magnified since most marine (saltwater) drink the water around them. Depletion of these trace elements through biological processes needs to be compensated for by water changes using a quality marine mix AND by testing your alkalinity (KH)/Calcium/Magnesium and adding buffers such as Sea Chem Buffer accordingly that not only add necessary carbonates for buffering but also add necessary electrolytes such as Chloride, Calcium, and Magnesium to name a few. For MUCH more on the effects of electrolytes and their function in freshwater and saltwater: How do Fish Drink; Proper Osmotic Function Further Reading/references about the importance of Electrolytes in all organisms (including fish and humans) http://www.umm.edu/ency/article/002350.htm http://www.traceminerals.com/electrolytes.html http://faculty.weber.edu/jkelly/2230%20fluids%20and%20electrolytes.htm PH: Although this articles main subject is not about pH, it is hard not to mention a little something here. Often aquarists will “chase” pH trying to achieve the “perfect” pH not realizing that pH stability is generally for more important than the actual pH number. Fish can adapt to different pH, however fish are NOT tolerant to wide swings in pH. There is a simple explanation to this that many are not aware of, that is the pH scale is logarithmic, meaning a change of pH from say 7.0 to 6.0 is a ten fold increase in acidity, while a change from 7.0 to 5.0 is 100 times change in acidity (it also goes the other direction as to alkalinity). This is also why large water changes (25% +) are generally a good idea unless pH (and GH) levels are not changed (this also why cleaning filters such as the Aquarium cleaning Machine are useful for tanks with high bio loads that may require larger water changes). This is also an important reason to not only float your new fish for temperature adjustment, but to also slowly introduce aquarium water to your new fish’ shipping bag prior to tank introduction. Reference: Elmhurst Education; pH KH as noted earlier is a stabilizer of pH (towards the alkaline side) whereas peat, some driftwood, Mango Wood , and dried almond leaves (Bio Lif ) will aid in lower stabilization (for really troublesome high pH aquariums, cutting pH/KH with blended RO water may be necessary, see below). If using Bio Lif or Peat (I recommend Bio Lif), I suggest at least temporarily suspending the use of carbon, you can still use it, just not after initial use of Bio Lif or peat as Carbon removes many of the elements that these products add that make them work (much like how carbon can remove other essential trace elements and non-essential trace elements and toxins (carbon cannot tell the difference between good and bad). If the water gets too brown from these products, then slowly re-introduce the carbon back in. For Amazon River Water (lowering pH);  For areas with high KH or pH problems the use of RO or DI water blended with tap or well water is simple and effective method to solve this problem (combined with pH/KH buffers discussed later).RO (Reverse Osmosis) or DI (De-ionized) water is used to aid in pH (& KH) reduction. I would recommend only using no more than 25% to start with (the remaining 75% well or tap water) and adding a Wonder Shell (or other form of trace elements such as API Electro-Right for about a day to this water to add back essential minerals including calcium (Calcium is very important to Amazon basin fish as well as other fish too). You can adjust this percentage up with subsequent water changes as you find your “sweet spot” in pH, but remember that pH stability is often much more important than the actual number. Also be careful in using bottled drinking water assuming it has proper minerals, it usually does not. Be patient with this process as you want slowly lower pH (and KH well), as earlier stated you can increase your percentage of RO or DI water each time you change water however you do not want stress fish by a large RO percentage right away. Also keep in mind that Peat, Bio Lif , and Mango Wood/Driftwood will slowly work on pH and GH reduction, NOT overnight! These products act as low pH buffers and will not bring down a pH immediately (nor do you want to either!), if your KH is especially high this will take time and subsequent water changes with blended RO water (which will “cut” the pH). Other products that are popular for softening water, lowering pH, and for creating an Amazon or Breeding environment include black water tonics and Atison’s SPA. I personally do not care for the old black water remedies as I find them to mostly work like the proverbial “chicken soup” placebo effect when put to actual tests and in fact I have seen harmful anaerobic bacteria added from these remedies. As to Atison’s SPA, this is growing in popularity among Betta enthusiasts due to mega internet site promotions by Dr. Fosters and PetsMart. This is a good product as per the use of Almond leaves that it contains which are vastly superior to Black Water or peat, however it is very refined as compared to the superior Bio Lif and its claims to help with Calcium (which is often a forgotten mineral necessary for healthy breeding) is better served by a separate addition such as with Wonder Shells or even water changes using high calcium water or salts that contain calcium such as SeaChem Cichlid Salt. Another aspect of this product is that the almond leaves are very refined which causes the loss of potency of beneficial attributes and that it contains added Sodium Thiosulfate which although is an excellent de-chlorinator is unnecessary in a product such as this in my opinion. Personally I would avoid the hype of the Dr. Fosters at al and stay with products that more professionals use such as Bio Lif and Wonder Shells. Finally it is important as you also want to note that the Amazon River starts high in the Andes Mountains where it picks up a lot of minerals only to be buffer “down” by organics such as peat and bio-decay (as well as dilution from copious amounts of rain water). Bio decay will also add nitric acid which will further lower pH (providing you do not over clean the substrate). Because of this, do not try and lower GH, calcium in particular as this is still an important element for osmoregulation in Discus and other Amazonian fish as well (calcium aids in a reducing Redox as well!) Do NOT use pH lowering products such as pH Down as these will just cause a roller coaster effect on your pH, better to concentrate on a stable KH and use blended RO water along with pH buffering products such as Bio Lif (almond leaves), peat and Drift Wood (Mango Wood). Back to pH in general: The main point I would like to make as to pH is that often too much concern is given to a perfect pH when in reality a stable pH is more important (which I can speak to in the 1000s of aquariums I have maintained at different pH and other parameters). I have seen Discus (a fish which comes from waters often under 6.5) breed in aquariums with a pH above 7.5. What is stressful is a pH that is not stable therefore a good KH or acid buffer is important. What I have found FAR MORE IMPORTANT is electrolytes and calcium (which will also affect a good Redox Potential) present than a so called perfect pH. The discus under my care were much more healthy with a KH of around 50 ppm, a GH around 100 ppm and a Redox Potential around -300 mV than with a pH under 6.5 (please note that these numbers just given are for discus, for many fish such as livebearers I kept a much higher KH and GH). Another point to pH is tap water or well water pH when drawn will often gas out (sometimes referred to as “gassing out”). This is trapped CO2 gas in the tap water (also Hydrogen Sulfite as well) that will slowly gas out of the water if allowed to sit. What I mean is you will get a sample of tap/well water then immediately test it and get a result such as 6.5 that can rise to 7.0 or higher over the next hour as CO2 gasses out, if there are carbonates (KH) in the water (even more common in well water from my experience), the pH will rise (sometimes appreciably). This is noteworthy in testing your tap water as you will NOT get accurate tap water pH readings if you test your water immediately after drawing it from the tap, it is best to wait at least one hour. This gassing out does NOT affect GH or KH as these are minerals that remain in the water. The addition of mineral blocks such as Wonder Shells would not cause a problem as these would not add more carbonates to water already containing carbonates at level of 150 ppm KH for example. Again, stability is the key point and adding phosphate containing pH lowering products will tend to cause roller coaster pH swings in an established tank. Better is a stable GH and KH with the addition of (Bio Lif ), Peat, Driftwood, and/or Mango Wood . Finally for too low pH problems: First start by testing your tap or well water (as stated earlier this can gas out so wait for 1 hour before testing). If your tap/well water is low in pH and/or KH you will have problems maintaining higher pH if that is desired. Areas that draw their water from rivers, especially that flow in boggy areas or are of volcanic origin may have very low pH/KH. If tap/well water is the problem or part of the problem you will need to add some crushed coral/aragonite to a nylon bag and place this in the filter AND/OR you can add can add some Buffer to the water (I do not recommend Baking Soda as noted and explained earlier in the article). A complete buffer such as Sea Chem Buffer (Marine OR Freshwater) will work well as this supplies ALL elements necessary and much more steadily than crushed coral/aragonite (the Marine is safe for FW use and I actually prefer it over the Rift Lakes Buffer). Wonder shells will help with Calcium and GH and will help maintain KH, however they are NOT as useful for water that is already very low in KH/pH and needs to be brought up. For planted aquariums I prefer the Sea Chem Alkaline Buffer, although this product is not as stable as marine or rift lakes buffer as this buffer is more basic like Baking Soda so regular checks of KH are more important when this buffer is employed. If the tap/well water is fine, I would look at tank conditions and change more water, more frequently. Here are a few possible problems to look into: *Mulm buildup under rocks/décor and in canister filters/ Wet-Dry filters. Canister filters in particular if let go more than 6 weeks can buildup a lot of decomposing mulm that will add acids to your water. *Too much Driftwood/Mango Wood. Some driftwood in particular can be full of tannins that will lower pH/KH. *Too deep a sand bed, this again can add to decomposition that leads to acid build up (sand tends to worse than gravel here, however gravel can cause this too when too deep. *In frequent or poorly conducted water changes/cleanings. Please see this article for more: “Aquarium Cleaning; Methods and Reasons” After correcting these problems, you still may need to add a buffer or aragonite bag to your aquarium.  The Green Lane (http://www.ns.ec.gc.ca/) Here (below) is an interesting chart and calculator for the relationship between KH and pH as it relates to CO2 in planted aquariums: Measuring CO2 levels in a Planted Tank FACTS ABOUT ELECTROLYTES AND CALCIUM; • All fish require calcium and electrolytes, including discus, bettas, tetras and other soft water fish. In fact the lack of electrolytes and calcium is a MAJOR problem for poor health in bettas and discus. Good water management should ALWAYS insure good electrolyte levels along with water changes and other aquatic husbandry practices. Use of water conditioners as well mineral blocks can help insure this. • Calcium and other minerals added to fish food made from poor quality ingredients are usually not adequate for proper health (some studies show these added minerals block absorption). Calcium and other minerals in the water (especially for marine organisms) as well as foods high in natural minerals such as Spirulina are also important. • Although the addition of calcium and electrolytes may initially stress fish that have had low electrolyte levels, this does NOT prove these elements detrimental any more than changing water in an aquarium that is long over due for a water change (this too may initially stress fish). A GH of 20 dGH (over 350 ppm) is easily tolerated by ALL fish especially when calcium makes up the majority of this separate calcium and magnesium tests can verify this) • Although RO or DI may be very clean and pure, by itself it can be VERY detrimental to fish without the addition of electrolytes and trace elements such as calcium. If you use it, make sure you reconstitute it. I only recommend using RO/DI blends with tap water (and then generally in low pH fish such as discus, adding a Wonder Shells or similar for added trace elements). Drinking Water is usually just RO water with SOME minerals added for “taste” and is FAR from appropriate for aquarium use. Usually true spring water is OK. However RO or DI water is fine for marine use (in fact I recommend it) as salt mixes add all the trace elements needed • It is possible to have adequate calcium and electrolytes without raising pH to a harmful level for discus, bettas and other fish that generally prefer low pH water (many discus breeders in LA keep there discus pH higher than in the wild anyway). • You can help lower your pH without affecting Calcium and other electrolytes with many types of driftwood, such as Mango Wood/Driftwood , peat or peat pellets, and /or my preferred method Almond leaves (or husk) placed in a filter or filter bag as these not only lower pH, they also help with water quality especially the control of dangerous anaerobic bacteria. A product which contains them in a refined and usable form is Bio Lif . This said about the use of these products, I personally find that the almond leaves, peat, and driftwood work best as an aid to low pH maintenance and lowering the pH first by partial use of RO or DI water works best. SUMMARY: There is much scientific practical evidence to support the need of Calcium, a healthy KH, GH, and Electrolytes in a Freshwater Aquarium. This is more widely known for marine aquariums, however these important parameters and the interaction they have on fish health in freshwater are often missed. The minerals often found in GH (Calcium in particular) have also shown to be effective for BOTH prevention and treatment of Hole in the Head (HITH) in many cichlids Many freshwater aquarists will often concern themselves with a certain pH all the while missing the importance KH plays in the stability of pH even in Amazon River tanks (where low pH buffers should also be employed). The need for calcium by all creatures is well documented, especially in studies outside the aquatics industry/hobby. Calcium and other elements found in a healthy GH are important for osmoregulation in ALL freshwater fish and even plants (saltwater organisms too). These elements also aid in a healthy Redox Potential as well. The addition of pH up or pH down products is often counter productive vs. using products that stabilize your aquariums KH and GH, these products often result in a bouncing pH. Products such as Wonder Shells will help with your calcium, magnesium, GH and aid Kh of your aquarium. I prefer them over crushed coral for adding calcium, magnesium and electrolytes as from my experience. Wonder Shells also come in a medicated version for control of aquarium ich and fungus. Here are a few attributes of these: * Helps keep aquarium clear, * Aid in maintenance of a stable ph, * Adds necessary minerals (electrolytes), * Removes chlorine, * Great for Bettas, Goldfish, livebearers, cichlids, and more, * Contains Calcium carbonate; sodium thiosulfate; major, minor, and trace elements including magnesium sulfate. Magnesium and calcium been proven to help fish (and humans) during stress and to help prevent disease due to acid buildup in the body. And to those who knock Wonder Shells (often without using them) based on poor packaging, a gimmicky name, or lack of marketing (the company generally only sells locally, so person often will say “I have never heard of these”); these persons are missing one key point and that is despite all of this, these Wonder Shells fly off the shelves in stores in California and have for more than two decades because word of mouth is that they actually work! 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